ABSTRACT. The rise of the body positivity movement within the fashion industry causes shifting consumer beliefs and attitudes and evaluating self-appearance emerges as a compelling and integral facet of consumer behaviour in this context. Consequently, this paper aims to ascertain the influence of the type of advertisement (body positive vs. stereotypical) on consumer perceptions, and purchase behaviour toward brands. Additionally, it examines the moderating role of body image and the mediating role of belief congruence in shaping the relationship between the type of advertisement and consumers’ valuations. Findings from an experimental study, indicate a positive impact of body positive advertisements on both, brand perceptions and purchase behaviour, showing its effectiveness in resonating with consumers. Additionally, the moderating effect of body image shows to influence the strength of the relationship between the type of advertisement and consumers’ perceived ethicality of brands, purchase intentions, and WTP. Results provide relevant insights and show that the lower the body image levels, the higher the participants’ purchase intention, and WTP when exposed to body positive advertising. Yet, as the level of body image increases, the effect of body positive advertisements becomes less relevant due to the perceived fulfilment of one’s perceived image. Concerning stereotypical advertisements are still effective but for high body image individuals, revealing a lower desire for the visualisation of reality. Mediation results show that belief congruence indirectly affects how the alignment between one's beliefs and representation in the advertisement is linked to body positivity, as individuals derive belonging and validation from this congruence alignment. These results yield insightful perspectives on purpose-driven branding and consumer behaviour, which highlights the influence of body positivity in advertising and delves into the nuanced dynamics between body image, belief congruence, and advertising strategies. Furthermore, it shows the interplay between the evaluation of one’s own appearance and decision-making, emphasizing the imperative for marketers to consider this aspect when developing campaigns targeted at final consumers.

ABSTRACT. As major luxury fashion brands are embracing diversity in their brand communication strategies, new research questions are concerned with the effectiveness of such communication efforts on consumers’ brand evaluations and purchase behaviors. This study investigates the impact of diversity representations in luxury fashion advertisements on perceived brand sustainability, brand equity, and purchase intention. A first experiment, conducted on the advertising of a well-known luxury fashion brand, shows the moderating role of brand trust on the relationship between diversity representations and perceived brand sustainability. Results also indicate that diversity representations influence brand equity and purchase intention through the mediating impact of perceived sustainability. To control for brand name effects, these results are replicated by means of a second experiment conducted on comparable advertisements where the brand name was kept anonymous. Finally, a third experiment is conducted to explore how these relationships might unfold in the context of the Metaverse, where diversity is represented through avatars that embody consumers’ self-perceptions. Here, it is shown that the role of perceived sustainability on both brand equity and purchase intention is moderated by consumers’ self-congruity, referring to the extent to which the portrayed social sustainability values align with the individual’s self-concept. Insights are provided regarding brand strategy management for more effective socially sustainable representations in luxury fashion digital and virtual communication.

ABSTRACT. This study delves into the psychological and sustainability impact of AI-generated fashion advertising, investigating its effects on consumer emotions, behaviors, cognitive processes, and perceptions of sustainable fashion. This study hypothesizes that AI ads enhance positive emotions, purchase intention, cognitive processes, and perception of sustainable fashion practices. Employing an experimental design, we compare AI-driven and human-created ads, focusing on EEG and eye-tracking responses toward sustainable messages. Neural and visual engagement with sustainable ad elements is measured using EEG and eye-tracking. A survey further assesses these ads' effectiveness in improving emotional response, purchase intention, brand favorability, and awareness of sustainable fashion. This study provides strategy for developing AI-generated advertising theory and business with academic and practical implications.

ABSTRACT. In the current socio-environmental landscape, luxury consumption has witnessed a resurgence, with consumers increasingly valuing meaningful and sustainable aspects in their purchases. A Savanta MillionaireVue survey in Q1 2023 revealed that 22% of the wealthiest US consumers reject brands lacking ethical or sustainability standards, while 47% consider a company's social responsibility crucial in their purchase decisions. Similarly, the European Luxury Report 2023 indicated that 77% of European customers are contemplating sustainable luxury products, with 51% willing to pay up to 10% more for certified sustainable items. Traditionally, luxury markets have shifted focus towards customers aligning purchases with personal traits, values, and lifestyles, reflecting a departure from a mere display of income or status (Chandon et al., 2016; Cheach et al., 2015; Roux et al., 2017; Kauppinen-Räisänen et al., 2018). Previous research highlights the significance of self-enhancement and self-expression as motivators for sustainable behavior in the luxury sector (Eastman et al., 2021). The current study builds upon this foundation by exploring the relationship between an individual's pro-environmental attitude and luxury buying motives, particularly investigating the effects of pro-environmental self-identity on self-presentation, self-expression, and consumption of luxury goods. Contemplating the structural relationships between these factors, the study draws on Costly Signaling Theory, suggesting that consumers engaging in visible altruistic behavior, such as sustainable luxury consumption, enhance their status without shame (Griskevicius et al., 2010; Cervellon, 2013). Identity signaling, crucial in sustainable luxury choices, enables individuals to be perceived in the desired manner within social groups (Berger & Heath, 2007). This research extends the understanding of pro-environmental behavior's impact on purchasing motives, emphasizing the role of self-presentation in conveying personal values and achieving social status and ethical recognition. Furthermore, the study posits that pro-environmental identity will exert a stronger influence on self-presentation than self-expression, consequently affecting the perceived prestige value of sustainable luxury items and intentions to pay a premium price. Leveraging insights from Vigneron and Johnson (2004) and Kapferer and Bastien (2012), the research explores how consumers perceiving sustainable luxury brands as prestigious are more likely to allocate higher spending. These items signify not only elevated social status but also ethical awareness, intertwining aspects within the sustainability framework. This comprehensive exploration of factors within the sustainability framework contributes to the discourse on responsible luxury consumption. The study offers valuable insights for marketers, policymakers, and academics, aiming to understand and encourage sustainable luxury choices in a rapidly evolving consumer landscape.

ABSTRACT. Although conspicuous consumption (CC) is truly a global phenomenon with tremendous significance to marketing theory, practice, and potentially, consumer welfare, relatively few studies have focused on the underlying reasons why individuals choose to engage in this behavior. The primary goal of this research is to identify and operationalize different dimensions of motivations for CC, and to determine how might these different facets behave in a set of relevant antecedents. Nine justifications were inspired from a thorough review of the extant literature: snobbery, bandwagon, happiness, confidence, identity-building, distinctiveness, social capital, social capital, and quality. Statements were generated to assess each motivation, and these nascent measures were embedded within a nomological net that also incorporated measures for pertinent individual-level characteristics (materialism, self-esteem, and need-for-uniqueness) as well as internally-held sociocultural values (vertical and horizonal dimensions of individualism-collectivism), and measures for assessing social desirability bias. For predictive validity, we also included two existing unidimensional scales for measuring the behavioral aspect of conspicuous consumption. Results of study involving 399 consumers empirically validated 8 of the 9 posited dimensions (all but quality) and examined how these motivations behave within a nomological net of antecedents and outcomes. With a second study (under development) we seek to replicate the findings using a more representative sample of consumers and investigate how the various CC facets are associated with social media use, social media motivations, and social media addiction. From a theoretical perspective, the development of a multidimensional scale provides researchers with a better understanding of the complex nature of conspicuous consumption (trait validity), including which CC motivations are most strongly associated with CC behaviors (predictive validity), and how these relationships are shaped by individual difference and social factors (nomological validity). From a practical standpoint, as witnessed by the rising global markets for luxury brand-name goods, it is imperative for brand managers to understand the mechanisms behind the purchasing decisions of material goods that ostentatiously denote status and wealth. And finally, from a consumer welfare standpoint, research into the motivations underlying conspicuous consumption may be helpful in designing interventions to counteract potentially maladaptive behaviors, given that CC may constitute an outcome of terminal materialism, which, due to its ultimately insatiable character, is negatively associated with psychological well-being.

ABSTRACT. This study investigates the relationship between secondary markets and brand equity in the luxury industry. We conducted a systematic review of 156 papers using Scopus to examine how secondary markets affect brand equity in the luxury industry and how brands intervene in the secondary market. The results of the systematic review found that the secondary market has a positive impact on brands. How brands intervene in the secondary market can be divided into direct and indirect. Direct interventions are when a brand enters the secondary market and sells second-hand products. Indirect interventions are to intervene in the secondary market indirectly, such as by guaranteeing the authenticity of second-hand goods and setting the list price taking the price in the secondary market into account. Indirect interventions are effective in improving brand equity. These results put an end to the debate about whether the secondary market is hostile or friendly to brands that are producers, and provide insight into how the secondary market should be controlled. Future research should examine whether a brand's products need only be distributed in the secondary market to positively impact brand equity or whether they need to be priced at a higher level. Meanwhile, the impact of direct interventions on brand equity in secondary markets and the profits of indirect interventions have not been studied and are expected to be studied in the future.

ABSTRACT. The study investigated the influence of website features on the purchase intention of online fashion among Generation Z consumers in South Africa. This topic has received increasing attention against the backdrop of the rapidly growing ‘Digital Generation’, or ‘Millennial consumers’, who are one of the most tech-savvy generations. Despite the benefits that online shopping offers to both the business and the consumer, the act of buying clothes online has presented some challenges to customers. This study therefore aims to gather further insight in an attempt to provide fashion businesses with guidance to better succeed in encouraging customers to shop online. This study selected two visual elements (website aesthetics and product presentation) and two functional website features (website navigation, and security and privacy) and social norms, the test the effect they have on perceived ease of use, attitude and intention to purchase clothing online. The proposed conceptual model tested seven hypotheses of which four were supported. By means of an empirical study, 166 online surveys were collected from individuals within the Generation Z cohort and the analysis was done using SPSS27 by running multiple regression analysis to test the relationships between the variables. The results from this study provide global and local fashion brands with valuable insight into the consumption habits of young consumers in an emerging economy, and factors that drive online fashion consumption.

ABSTRACT. Chinese consumers’ influence on global luxury consumption continues to grow, via both domestic and overseas spending. Luxury brands need to think beyond growing GMV and focusing on building brand loyalty and customer engagement to enable luxury customers to shop anytime, anywhere, from any channel.

Through a content analysis of publicly available E-commerce and Social-Commerce websites, this study investigates how luxury brand employed innovative technologies to transform their go-to-market strategy targeting Chinese luxury consumers –and the extent to which these new technologies can support luxury brands in further strengthening their brand values.

This presentation took a view of current trends in the luxury marketing in China, especially in the digital domain, with a goal of providing insights into the luxury market's digital transformation through E-commerce and Social-Commerce. Findings suggest that luxury fashion brands need to leverage technologies to creatively reinforce the brand value, customer loyalty and expand brand’s touch points in order to grow consumer interest and meet demands.

By looking at examples employed by luxury brands, this study identified implications for luxury brands in a digital marketing and retail context. Through a systematic content analysis, this research has focused on leading luxury brands and their uses of technologies, as well as its impact on shaping the Chinese Luxury Market. Through a thorough analysis, this research reveals that in terms of leveraging technologies, luxury brands must be particularly cautious about balancing the reach and exclusiveness, as certain promotional activities may negatively impact the brand perception; while focusing on offering experiences and differentiated values to cultivate consumer interest in the long run.

ABSTRACT. This paper addresses the need for new approaches to teaching fashion management, a need that emerges from living in dynamic, complex, ambiguous, and uncertain times. Education, as an important part of our knowledge society, must meet the challenges of current times, adapt, and change so that it prepares and empowers students to live in and envision a better future. Climate change, human and planetary well-being, pandemics, technological disruptions, and changes in all spheres of our lives are shaping a new context that calls for new approaches to understanding, connecting, exploring, and applying new fashion management pedagogies. Moreover, fashion as an academic discipline is relatively recent, but it has been based on traditional teaching methods like other university fields. Fashion is also considered a creative industry but, instead of relying on local resources as the majority of this kind of industries, is more and more dependent on global value chains. These specific characteristics of the sector, lead to a variety of professional profiles involved in fashion companies: from upstream (yarn and fabric manufacturers, etc.) to downstream (people in charge of end-of-life and circularity processes), including main operations at the offices: designers, buyers, product managers, responsible for communication, marketing, to name only a few. Through the revision of the literature and the analysis of professional sectorial reports in America and Europe, the authors have: a) identified key profiles in the evolving fashion industry today; b) compared them with existing academic courses offered in different universities; and, finally, c) proposed a novel framework that addresses those complexities and challenges today so that fashion educational institutions can prepare new types of students who can adapt and thrive in our dynamic times.

ABSTRACT. In recent decades, a renewed focus on ethical, critical, and environmental considerations has highlighted the pivotal role of purchasing activities as a sphere of political action and engagement. This phenomenon is especially pronounced in the realm of fashion, where critical consumption emerges as a palpable and personal avenue for individual political involvement (Micheletti 2003). Simultaneously, there is a discernible inclination towards environmentally conscious behaviors, increasingly associated with millennials who exhibit heightened green awareness and commitment. Notably, Reda and Kapoor (2021) emphasize that Gen Z and Millennial consumers show greater attention to sustainable or ethical purchases compared to other demographic segments.

However, questions remain: Are younger generations authentically conscious about sustainable fashion? To what extent does easy access to information, facilitated by digital tools and social media, contribute to their awareness of sustainability issues? Moreover, even if they are "aware," are they genuinely enthusiastic about adopting more sustainable consumption practices, including the purchase of sustainable fashion items?

This paper tackles these questions by drawing on mixed qualitative data collected as part of two distinct but interrelated research streams: a) a national survey conducted in June 2021 and October 2023 on a statistically representative sample of the Italian population by an interdisciplinary team from Università Cattolica in Milan; b) questionnaires, and focus groups with graduate students participating in the educational initiatives undertaken within the Erasmus+ project Fashion & Food Synergy for Sustainability between march 2023 may 202and involving students across three diverse universities—Università Cattolica in Italy, ISEM-Fashion Business School in Spain, and Radboud University in the Netherlands4 .

The contribution explores the political dimensions of individual consumption choices, framing them as active forms of participation. The research delves into the intricate relationship between young people and sustainability, unveiling variations in attitudes and behaviors, with environmental engagement often finding expression through private, lifestyle-oriented practices. In particular the analysis of Generation Z and Millennial consumers shows both similarities and differences in their perceptions as well as their perceived importance, value, and need for sustainable clothing consumption.

In summary, our research reveals that Generation Z and Millennials do indeed prioritize sustainability when making purchasing decisions, demonstrating a preference for socially responsible clothing brands and a penchant for second-hand or vintage items. However, it's crucial to note the varied attitudes among young individuals. Those with an established record of active participation encompass a wider spectrum of practices, extending to activism. The relatively modest rates of critical consumption observed among non-activist youth serve as a reminder that the market is predominantly shaped by diverse elements, and these sustainable practices are still perceived as alternative forms.

ABSTRACT. E-commerce has increased in the fashion industry, reaching a significant share of sales. At the same time, online returns cause profit loss (Hu et al. 2019), impact on supply chain performance (Su, 2009), have consequences on reverse logistics, increase the dead stock and cause troubles with margins. Online returns produce environmental problems: transport (last mile and shipping), emissions of GHG, packaging, and a general waste increase, including textile waste. All these aspects also provoke economic troubles for companies. Although online commerce improves some sustainability indicators, is also finding major challenges in other aspects because of the increase in online returns. There are different profiles of online consumers, but returns are normal in all the profiles analysed. Adopting artificial intelligence applications can moderate the impact of returns in e-commerce by helping customers to make more accurate purchase decisions and, therefore, to reduce the need for reverse retail operations (Yang, 2022;), e.g. chatbots or virtual assistants, virtual fitting rooms; interactive digital mirrors; AI-generated product attribution platforms or personalized purchase boxes as Stitch Fix' ones through a combination of big data and algorithms, virtual try-on technologies or recommendation systems (Cheng, Song, at al, 2021; Bellini, Palesi et al, 2023). The objectives of this research are: a) to review the current technology and present a comparative analysis of different implementations of AI applications; b) to present and evaluate the willingness to use them from the consumers’ side, and c) to extract some insights that could be used by companies to reduce the negative impacts of online returns. The methodology used, consists of a literature review, and once the tools are identified, two focus groups are with online consumers. One of the groups is composed by Fashion Management students and the other one with general consumers.

ABSTRACT. Virtual Reality (VR) is an immersive simulation experience that can closely mimic or diverge entirely from the real world. The VR industry is undergoing rapid expansion, with the global VR market expected to grow from under 12 billion dollars in 2022 to surpass 22 billion dollars by 2025 (Statista, 2024). VR has become a significant trend in sports media consumption, offering an enhanced experience that optimally boosts audience engagement (Kim & Ko, 2019). Addressing this rapid growth and prevalence of VR, this research aims to explore the effects of VR technology in sports advertising, with a focus on enhancing audience engagement and improving information dissemination. Amidst the evolving landscape of VR technology, its application in sports advertising could present effective marketing strategies (Yunshan, 2022). The study begins with an examination of VR's foundational principles and developmental trajectory, especially its role in sports advertising. Comparative experiments are scheduled to be conducted to assess how VR sports advertisements differ from traditional ads in terms of audience engagement and information dissemination intention. Findings would suggest that VR ads boost immersion, and thus enhancing brand perception and message dissemination intention. The paper will also investigate the role of VR familiarity as a moderator. The results will contribute to the existing literature on VR sports advertising and offer practical tactics and strategies in sports advertising. It concludes by projecting future trends and challenges in VR advertising, offering both theoretical and practical insights for this field.

ABSTRACT. This study examines the impact of youth fashion trends on 'The North Face' brand in South Korea, focusing on the periods of short padded coat (2008-2012) and long padded coat (2016-2020). Drawing on Girard's imitation theory and Veblenian conspicuous consumption, it explores how youth express belonging through brand affiliation. Utilizing Bourdieu's class theory, the research investigates the influence of personal preferences on social tastes and class-based discrimination. A survey method involving manipulated images will be employed to assess attitudes during each trend era and their impact on purchase intentions. The hypotheses posit positive relationships between consumer attitudes, individual desires, attractiveness, suitability, trends, functionality, trust, and brand loyalty. The study aims to contribute insights into youth culture, fashion trends, and effective marketing strategies for brands targeting this demographic.

ABSTRACT. In recent years, sports sponsorship has undergone significant transformations (Dolphin, 2003; Crompton, 2004) due to escalating player salaries and rising overall costs, challenging sports teams to maintain financial stability (Dietl, Franck, Lang, Rathke, 2012). Concurrently, the cryptocurrency sector has witnessed substantial growth, especially in 2021, marked by increased adoption and interest from traditional entities. Cryptocurrency companies are leveraging sports sponsorship as a primary tool to promote their services (Naraine,2019) a trend accelerated by the Covid-19 pandemic, temporarily limiting funding from traditional sources for sports teams. Blockchain technology offers sports teams novel avenues for fan engagement, crucial amid a growing array of fan choices and services. Focusing on Italy's Serie A, this paper explores these dynamics and assesses their sustainability. First, it analyzes sponsorship deals between Serie A teams and cryptocurrency entities, revealing that within just over a year, the cryptocurrency sector created one of the league's largest sponsorship categories. In the 2021/22 season alone, these partnerships contributed over €50 million to club revenues. The second section delves into how sports teams are utilizing blockchain technology, particularly through fan tokens, to enhance fan engagement and create additional value, noting their performance's apparent independence from team results. The final section speculates on the future trajectory of this transformation, emphasizing that the continued integration of blockchain technology in Serie A is not solely contingent on the presence of cryptocurrency companies. Instead, macroeconomic conditions may influence the future role of cryptocurrency in football sponsorship, as the authors are currently analyzing on the 21/22 and 22/23 Serie A seasons.

ABSTRACT. This study analyzes the adoption of facial pattern recognition (FPR) technologies within the fashion online retail sector. FPR matches product assortments offered with customers’ physical and emotional profiles. On the positive side, better product matching potentially decreases the likelihood of returns. On the negative side, mood-based targeting might increase un-planned purchases of sometimes unneeded products, which in turn increases the likelihood of returns. This paper addresses these opposing triggers and develops two theoretical models analyzing the effects of adopting FPR on consumer choices and retailer profitability.

ABSTRACT. As technological innovations continue to advance worldwide, it is important to investigate the adoption and implementation of these technologies in key industries such as the fashion industry. While there is a substantial amount of information on the global fashion industry as regards the current and planned use of evolving technologies by various industry stakeholders, a closer look will show that this may be skewed to Western fashion industries. In 2023, UNESCO published a report on the African fashion industry detailing the challenges and opportunities to be addressed by stakeholders in the industry (UNESCO, 2023). One of such areas was the need to foster marketing and brand building to access new markets for growth. There is no doubt, that the opportunities for growth remain endless and technologies such as AI can provide some of the solutions that the industry needs to progress and compete on a global scale across various levels of the value chain especially as regards marketing to existing and new markets. It can also be key to the achievement of some of the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) for African cities; the implementation of innovative technologies such as AI can solve Goal 9 (Industry, Innovation and Infrastructure) Goal 10 (Reduced Inequalities) and Goal 17 (Partnership for the Goals) as the regional industry becomes an innovation driver and revenue for the continent (Thakker & Sun, 2023).This paper is still a work in progress and will be further developed after getting feedback at the conference.

ABSTRACT. This study investigates the impact of artificial intelligence (AI) disclosure on consumer evaluations of the creativity of print advertisements, with a focus on the distinction between high and low involvement products. To test this, two creative print advertisements were developed for each product type, with identical visuals and copy. One version included a statement indicating it was created by AI, while the other did not. Participants were divided into four groups and exposed to either a high involvement product & AI-created ad, a high involvement product & non-AI-created ad, a low involvement product & AI-created ad, or a low involvement product & non-AI-created ad. They then rated the creativity of the advertisements. Results revealed that for both high and low involvement products, advertisements without the AI disclosure were perceived as more creative compared to those with the AI disclosure. This difference was significantly more pronounced for low involvement products than for high involvement products. These findings suggest that consumer perceptions of creativity in advertisements can be adversely affected by AI disclosure, particularly for products that require lower consumer involvement.

ABSTRACT. Luxury fashion brands incorporate art infusion as a strategy to uphold their prestigious image. However, the implementation of such art infusion in luxury does not consistently result in positive consumer evaluations, as evidenced by various research findings. Drawing on the ELM (Elaboration Likelihood Model), consumer information processing of brand messages can be categorized into two paths: cognitive and affective processes. These paths are contingent upon the consumer's existing knowledge and abilities to evaluate the brand's message. Consequently, consumers with differing levels of prior knowledge and experience in fashion may form attitudes through distinct paths, resulting in variations in marketing effectiveness in the future. This study suggests that these attitude differences arise from disparities in the level of fashion capital possessed by consumers. Fashion capital refers the personal level of sophisticated knowledge and discernment in the field of fashion, shaped through long-term experiences. The aim of this study is to examine how consumers' levels of fashion capital moderate their response toward art infusion in luxury.

ABSTRACT. The study undertakes an extensive literature review to examine the marketing strategy of "Artification" as adopted by luxury brands. Artification, characterized by the infusion of artistic elements into marketing practices, has emerged as a compelling force shaping the narratives and identities of luxury brands. Through a meticulous examination of scholarly researches, this study investigates the impact of Artification on critical marketing concepts, including luxury brand experiences, brand reputation, brand heritage, the experiential value of luxury, and customer experiences. The literature review commences with a detailed exploration of the concept of Artification, elucidating its theoretical underpinnings and evolution within the marketing discourse. By synthesizing a diverse range of studies, the paper establishes a foundational understanding of how luxury brands strategically leverage art to transcend traditional marketing boundaries. Art emerges as a potent marketing lever, allowing brands to go beyond the tangible attributes of their products and engage consumers on a deeper, emotional level. A central focus of the literature review is the examination of how Artification influences luxury brand experiences. Through a comprehensive analysis of existing researches, the paper dissects the ways in which artistic elements are employed to craft immersive and memorable brand encounters. The synthesis of literature highlights the transformative role of Artification in shaping consumer perceptions and fostering emotional connections within the luxury brand context. Furthermore, the research delves into the intricate relationship between Artification and brand reputation, emphasizing the strategic use of artistic codes to enhance aesthetic appeal and cultivate an aura of exclusivity and sophistication. The concept of brand heritage is also explored within this context, as Artification becomes a vehicle for luxury brands to not only communicate their historical roots but also to reinvent and contemporize their heritage in alignment with evolving consumer expectations. In the exploration of the experiential value of luxury, the paper investigates how Artification contributes to heightened sensory engagement and the creation of unique customer experiences. Luxury brands, through the infusion of artistic elements, position themselves as curators of experiences, transcending the transactional nature of their products. In conclusion, this literature review unveils the multi-faceted dimensions of Artification in luxury brand marketing, shedding light on its profound impact on luxury brand experiences, brand reputation, brand heritage, the experiential value of luxury, and customer experiences. The synthesis of existing knowledge not only provides a comprehensive overview but also lays the groundwork for future research endeavors. The paper posits that, as a powerful marketing lever, Artification enables luxury brands to recreate distance, uniqueness, and rarity, extending beyond the inherent quality of their products. This research opens numerous perspectives and avenues for future scholarly investigations, fostering a deeper understanding of the dynamic interplay between art and luxury brand marketing.

ABSTRACT. The purpose of this case study is to compare two luxury brands’ collaborations with modern Korean artists and the qualitative results achieved by the projects. As argued by J.N. Kapferer, through associations with artists, luxury brands are striving to present themselves as part of a creative industry and as a result elevate and legitimize their brand image. This article focuses specifically on Christian Dior’s Dior Lady Art series and Louis Vuitton’s Artycapucines due to the similarity in project structure – the final presentation in form of an exhibition – as well as the objects produced – bags elevated to the status of artworks but still maintaining functionality. Through the selected case studies, this article first explores how partnering with Korean artists enables brands to localize and engage more personally with Korean consumers while building deeper relationships with international consumers by leveraging the continuously growing global popularity of Korean culture. The study then examines how the collaborations contribute to the brands’ goal to present themselves as more authentic – in luxury terms, delivering exceptional experience characterized by high quality, craftsmanship, preciousness, and timelessness. This is achieved by providing artists with a platform to reinterpret iconic bags into artwork. Lastly, the article analyzes how, through these limited-edition items, the brands are also able to reinforce the idea of luxury as financial investment and a way to build family heritage.

ABSTRACT. This study aims to provide an analysis of two digitally native fashion companies, investigating the reasons behind their contrasting financial growth and social media presence. Factors such as launch methods, brand positioning, social media strategies, and paid marketing efforts, are the main drivers behind the observed differences in performance.

ABSTRACT. In Western societies, women face strong societal pressures to remove body hair, as it is associated with feminine beauty. In contrast, for men, hairy bodies have been considered the norm as well as a sign of masculinity. The rise of ads that challenge traditional gender norms by featuring women with natural body hair, or men without, has garnered attention in recent years. While previous research has primarily focused on explicit responses to such ads, this study employs Social Role Theory to delve into the internalized impact of social norms, specifically examining both explicit and implicit disgust emotions. Explicit attitudes refer to consciously held attitudes that are deliberately formed and stated, while implicit attitudes evaluate an individual’s automatically unaware cognitions and emotions. In this work, explicit emotions were measured using a self-report and implicit were collected using Affectiva AI tool, for identifying automatic emotional expressions. This research investigates how ads featuring models with or without body hair influence explicit/implicit disgust responses among women and men participants. It offers three contributions. First, it focuses on implicit responses, diverging from the predominant literature emphasizing explicit responses. Second, it examines both women’s and men’s reactions to non-stereotypical ads, whereas most research focused on women's responses to "Femvertising" ads (that show women in a non-stereotypical manner). Third, it integrates non-stereotypical ads literature with social role theory to reconcile debate perspectives, uncovering whether social norms regarding women's hair removal or men's body hair are internalized. Through two studies utilizing a mixed between-within and between-participants design, emotional reactions and purchase intentions are examined in response to body hair in ads. We found that men openly expressed explicit disgust when presented with ads showing women with body hair, driven by the social expectation of females’ hair removal, which in turn reduced their purchase intentions. This reaction reflects explicit patriarchal views, not implicit ones. Women also did not display implicit automatic disgust responses. Conversely, men show a stronger implicit disgust response to ads featuring men with body hair compared to women. These findings hint at evolving gender norms, suggesting that traditional grooming expectations for women may not be deeply ingrained at an implicit level. Our study contributes to understanding gender effects in advertising, fostering inclusivity and diversity in marketing approaches.

ABSTRACT. Purpose

Value co-creation in fashion has been extensively examined in marketing and business management research in recent years. In this paper, we review the existing literature on the topic to identify the leading research themes and future research guidelines.

Methodology

We conduct a systematic literature review using a bibliometric analysis by employing a series of steps. Firstly, we searched and assessed research articles about fashion value co-creation from three databases: Web of Science, Scopus, and Google Scholar. Next, we extracted relevant papers from the Web of Science database by considering the literature overlap from the three databases (N = 45 articles). Secondly, we used two bibliometric software HistCite and VOS viewer and applied co-citation analysis, keywords co-occurrence analysis and citation mapping, and bibliographic coupling. Thirdly, we summarized the most influential authors, articles, journals, institutions and countries where the articles were published. Finally, we conducted content analysis to identify and discuss the dominant themes based on the bibliographic coupling analysis results, including collecting the most frequent words in the respective clusters by Nvivo.

Findings

The popularity of holistic research and the number of publications in the field have been an ascending trend in recent years. We found that the USA and the UK were the most influential countries in fashion value co-creation. Tynan and Lorenzo-Romero are prominent authors from the perspectives of citations and numbers of publications, respectively. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management and Journal of Business Research are top-ranking journals. Tynan et al.'s study is the first fashion value co-creation paper. Results from bibliographic couplings showed that the research articles can be grouped into three clusters.

Practical implications

This bibliometric study will be useful for researchers to understand research progress on value co-creation and to shape their future research agenda.

Original value

This is the first comprehensive study on fashion value-creation, identifying leading research themes and future research directions. From methodological point of view, we are the first to combine bibliographic coupling analysis and content analysis, which are useful in clarifying dominant themes and gaining insights in the literature.

Research limitations and future research

Our research only considered the situation of conducting full counting in the bibliometric analysis of the VOS viewer.Our bibliographic coupling and research cluster analysis excluded papers with less than ten citations and primarily covered recently published articles with the latest future research themes. From the stakeholders' perspectives, our study did not clearly distinguish or highlight the role of specific stakeholders, such as consumers or fashion brands. The research only collected high-quality papers for bibliometric analysis; other types of publications, such as conference papers, book chapters or theses, may also provide clues in finding analysis and future research. Future studies could focus on specific research segments in fashion value co-creation, such as consumer behaviour or business strategy.

ABSTRACT. The transformation of Saudi Arabia's advertising landscape following 2015, under King Salman bin Abdulaziz Al Saud's reign, has redefined consumer behavior, particularly in the context of social media advertising within the clothing industry. This study investigates the sociocultural factors influencing Saudi consumers' attitudes towards social media advertising and purchase intentions in this evolving environment, with a focus on the religious, social norms, and reference group dimensions. The study addresses the understudied nuances of the clothing industry, which intersects with Western culture, potentially posing challenges for Muslim and Saudi consumers. The research aims to fill this gap by offering a systematic review that aims to explore the sociocultural factors influencing Saudi consumers’ attitudes towards social media advertising and purchase intentions within the clothing industry to see which sociocultural factor has the highest influence to recommend marketing strategies for Saudi clothing brands and international brands willing to invest in Saudi Arabia. By exploring religion, social norms, and reference groups, the study fills a crucial gap in the existing literature, providing insights that guide marketers in developing targeted and culturally sensitive social media advertising strategies, particularly in fashion. The investigation emphasizes the importance of understanding variations in consumer attitudes within the dynamic Saudi Arabian sociocultural context, essential for effective marketing strategies. The unique contribution of this study lies in its potential to bridge the gap between consumer attitudes and the evolving landscape of social media marketing, offering practical insights for businesses and enriching scholarly discussions on advertising in sociocultural contexts.

ABSTRACT. Fabrics are at the heart of the fashion system from an industrial standpoint (Maman Larraufie, 2014) but also from a consumer-meaning one (Barthes, 1990). Their supply is fundamental for fashion houses, with luxury ones looking after iconic / rare or innovative fabrics, to fast fashion who often inspire themselves from the fabric look to replicate only its pattern. The Vichy checks fabric, also known historically as the Gingham fabric, is a French innovative fabric from the XIXth century emblematic of a given historical period (the Second Empire in France), the industrial revolution, a place (Vichy is a city) and a lifestyle (Thermal cities). Throughout the decades until know it has been endowed with specific meanings for some individuals or groups of people (e.g. the 60s). Its journey from bespoke couture to mass-market and low-cost and then back to high fashion is an unusual path, esp. when considering its meaning beyond the fashion system in the hospitality industry. In this research we aim at understanding how the social meaning of a fabric can evolve throughout time and become a multi-faceted icon to ultimately reach the level of hyperreality (Perry, 2012). To do this we have collected material artifacts produced by various communication media around the fabric / pattern and have coded the material thanks to structural (Greimas, 1966) and interpretative semiotics (Peirce, 1974). We then propose the ‘Vichy Checks’ system of meanings throughout its existence and try to anticipate what could be the next stage of meaning. Ultimately, we propose a new methodology to decipher the relationship between society and a fabric/pattern, which could be reused to study other fabrics/patterns, including some branded ones (e.g. the Burberry pattern), to better understand how a fabric/pattern can become emblematic of a place / period / political message, etc.

ABSTRACT. This research examines yoga pants, tracing their evolution into a fashionable garment and cultural phenomenon in the US. The study is guided by the research question: Is it a case of cultural appreciation or cultural appropriation to label fashionable leggings as ‘yoga pants’ when they have little to do with the ancient spiritual practice of yoga? The research objective is to conceptualize the popular garment as a manifestation of the commercial reframing of the sacred Indian tradition.

Data have been collected from publicly available media sources. Yoga Journal magazine, an influential authority on the yoga lifestyle, was used as a major database to perform content analysis of yoga pants-related narratives dated from 2007, when yoga became a mainstream activity in the US, to 2022. Qualitative research methodology with a grounded theory approach (Corbin & Strauss, 2015) guided the analysis of data, resulting in findings that demonstrate a problematic cultural appropriation of yoga.

ABSTRACT. The aim of this study is to investigate consumers’ involvement in luxury fashion and their ultimate intention to visit fashion show’s host city (as tourists) to attend fashion shows. Building on the social dilemma theory, this research proposes its framework and hypotheses. A total of 168 Taiwanese luxury fashion consumers completed surveys that indicated how conspicuous consumption behavior, attitude toward luxury fashion, and luxury value perception can contribute to consumers’ involvement in luxury fashion, which in turn can affect their travel intentions. Furthermore, green self-identity can moderate the relationship between involvement and travel intentions. The implications of this research are also discussed.

ABSTRACT. Fashion has become increasingly integral to tourism marketing, shaping travelers' perceptions, decisions, and overall experiences. Recently, the blending of fashion and tourism has become a compelling and influential factor in molding consumer behaviors and destination preferences. With this in mind, there is a need to examine the value of cities hosting Fashion Week events; however, there is a lack of related research. Therefore, this study investigates the impact of fashion destination experience on city brand equity, tourist e-word of mouth, and revisit intention. Furthermore, the moderating role of cultural intelligence is discussed. To this end, we survey visitors to Paris during Paris Fashion Week and then analyze the data using partial least squares structural equation modeling (PLS-SEM). Theoretical and practical implications are discussed.

ABSTRACT. Luxury fashion leaders, including Dior and Chanel, strategically expand into hospitality, offering services like food and beverage (F&B) and upscale accommodations (Chen et al., 2021; Dallabona, 2015b). This aligns with their affluent clientele's preferences and taps into the thriving luxury hospitality sector's accelerated growth (Back et al., 2021; Forbes, 2022). Despite pandemic challenges in the tourism sector, brands sustain interest, emphasizing the need for a comprehensive exploration. This research aims to conduct a systematic literature review to synthesize existing knowledge, identify gaps, and propose future directions with a comprehensive perspective.

ABSTRACT. The purpose of this study is to clarify the concept of mindfulness and examine its effects on perceived sustainability and the consequences in the luxury brand campaign context, thereby uncovering sustainability by parsing out the different effects of mindfulness vs. mindlessness and exploring the key consumer outcomes. Understanding sustainability is important for marketing researchers and practitioners, the value of this study lies in clarifying the role of mindfulness in perceived sustainability and luxury brand purchase intentions. This study provides a framework for examining the effects of mindfulness on perceived sustainability, thereby shedding light on luxury brand sustainability and discovering perceived sustainability and purchase intentions as important outcomes. This study contributes to the literature on luxury brands’ sustainability by clarifying the concept of mindfulness and the relationships between perceived sustainability and purchase intentions. The findings also offer practical implications for how marketing strategies for perceived sustainability work more effectively and cater to different levels of mindfulness.

ABSTRACT. Today, most consumers are interested in high-quality content that is accessible without constraints of time and space. Responding to such expectations, recent advancements in AI technology have rapidly evolved to create virtual entities, such as digital, meta, and cyber-humans. Notably, they exert influence not only on social media platforms like YouTube and Instagram but also engage in various fields such as advertising models in the fashion and beauty industries. They represent a new type of influencer in the realm of social media, known as 'virtual influencer’ (VI). In this way, VIs are entering various social domains, either replacing human roles or seamlessly integrating into everyday life as companions. VIs, characterized by anthropomorphism like chatbots and game characters, are distinguished by their almost identical appearance and movements to real humans, with the advance of artificial intelligence and computer graphics. Their appearance encourages consumers to interact with them as if they were interacting with real people, enhancing the effectiveness and persuasiveness of their messages. That is, consumers can interact with virtual influencers in a manner similar to how they interact with actual humans. Therefore, to deeply examine recent consumer reactions to virtual influencers, it is more appropriate to apply the similarity-attraction effect, rather than the Uncanny Valley Theory, which suggests that overly realistic artificial creations evoke discomfort. Universally, people assess humanness based on the similarity between themselves and others, leading to the identification of in-group members (Alaei et al., 2022). Similarly, cues related to the attribution of similarity to products and technology can induce a perception that these entities feel human-like. This anthropomorphism perception can increase the acceptance of technology and foster attachment (Martin & Mason, 2023). Accordingly, this study aims to separate consumers' perceived similarity to Vis into internal and external dimensions, confirm the congruence of attributes, and explore how congruence between consumers and VI’s attribution influences attitudes towards advertisement. Based on the research findings, we seek to provide practical guidelines for companies in developing virtual influencers and suggesting strategies for utilization and advertising that businesses can adopt in the future.

ABSTRACT. In the world of modern marketing, sustainability has become a fundamental part of communication strategy. Companies are shifting from profit-centric narratives to ethical and sustainable practices, which foster meaningful connections with audiences. This is especially true for luxury fashion brands that rely on celebrity endorsements to promote their products and services to a wider audience. Celebrity endorsement is a central advertising strategy for most luxury fashion brands looking to strengthen their global market positioning. Additionally, “femvertising” and the use of female celebrities to reinforce values of female empowerment in advertising campaigns marks a conscious effort by brands to connect with consumers on a deeper, more meaningful level. Digitalization is vital for luxury key players to engage with their customers in the digital world, which will become increasingly important in the future. On YouTube, engagement is manifested through actions such as liking, disliking, commenting, sharing, and uploading videos. Analyzing the comments to the Prada Paradoxe ad campaign, this research aims to identify how viewers on YouTube perceive the ad message. In particular, we want to understand to what extent the visual brand signals, including sustainability cues, conveyed by a celebrity aligned with the brand signals, also in terms of sustainability, communicated by the company in the advertising campaign. Then, the study examines how these visual cues align with consumers’ perceptions of the brand’s sustainability signals.

ABSTRACT. Our research shows that consumers hold more favorable associations with vegan leather than synthetic leather. However, these associations remain lower than those with genuine leather. We also found an attitude-willingness-to-pay gap for sustainable luxury products made of leather alternatives, but this gap may be narrowed among consumers with innovative orientations.

ABSTRACT. Sustainable fashion is a necessary development trend for luxury brands. This paper investigates the advertisement on the social media platform regarding sustainable luxury brand led to consumer emotional response focus on the role of feature complexity, design complexity and the consumers’ attitude toward sustainable fashion. Artificial intelligence (AI) models were employed to extract information from the images in the posts of the Instagram. Word frequency analysis involves counting the occurrence of words within a given text or set of texts to identify patterns or trends. Findings of this study identifies the social media inputs to luxury brands sustainability advertisement. This research provides a deeper understanding of the variables to create successful consumer experience for the luxury brand in the social media platform. Second, this research found how to use consumer emotional response to positively influence consumer experience for luxury brand sustainability advertisement in the social media platform. Third consumer perceived feature complexity, design complexity was found to positively influence the brand attitude for luxury brand.

ABSTRACT. Envision a Bentley automobile conceptualized by artificial intelligence (AI), composed entirely of 3D-printed components, assembled autonomously without human touch (van Gastel et al., 2023). Now, consider a virtual MCM store existing solely in the metaverse, devoid of other complementary physical boutiques, yet offering round-the-clock, interactive shopping experiences (MCM’etaverse, n.d.). These scenarios prompt a critical inquiry: Could such technological advancements significantly alter the perceived value of luxury brands?

Technology has profound impact on a wide range of industries, including the realm of luxury goods and services. It unveils a plethora of exhilarating opportunities for luxury brands, akin to those exemplified above. Nonetheless, an alternative perspective cautions against the indiscriminate application of technology in luxury sectors. Critics argue that such practices risk undermining the very essence of luxury brands, potentially diminishing their perceived exclusivity and allure (Kapferer & Bastien, 2009).

Integral to the identity of luxury brands are certain well-established attributes that contribute to their esteemed status. These include factors such as steep pricing, exceptional quality and exclusivity (Heine & Phan, 2011). Beyond these tangible aspects, luxury brands are also defined by less quantifiable yet equally vital elements. Central to our research is the exploration of human effort and expertise involved in creating luxury goods and services. This encompasses aspects such as personalized service, craftsmanship and artistry, which are pivotal in the luxury domain (Kwan et al., 2021; Kapferer, 2014). Kwan et al. (2021) encapsulate these characteristics under the concept of “Endeavor.” This term aptly describes the combination of effort, skill, and creativity essential in crafting luxury products, a concept that is foundational for our study. In juxtaposing this with the technological advancements discussed earlier, such as AI-designed Bentleys and virtual MCM store, we aim to scrutinize how the integration of technology impacts these traditional pillars of luxury. This exploration is particularly relevant in the context of shifting consumer preferences toward digital experiences and consequent implications for luxury brands' perceived value.

Hence, our research sets out with this specific goal: to explore the dichotomy between technological integration and its potential effects on the important notion of brand endeavor for luxury brands. To enhance validity, we explore this directly with consumers of top end luxury goods.

After analysing our interview transcripts, we find that while technology is accepted in peripheral offerings, the necessity of preserving endeavoring value in core luxury products and services prevails.

ABSTRACT. Globally, the luxury market has been predominantly led by consumers seeking to showcase their wealth and social status (Kapferer, 2012). However, in contrast to earlier periods, half of the contemporary luxury market is now largely driven by middle-class consumers (D'Arpizio et al., 2020). In response to this shift, companies with premium brands are introducing 'Affordable luxury' product lines to attract consumers (Bai et al., 2021). Affordable luxury is defined as luxury products that offer higher quality than others in the same category but are not as expensive (Shahid et al., 2023; Silverstein & Fisek, 2003). The concept of the luxury market, closely associated with the idea of 'exclusive and expensive items accessible only to the wealthy,' is continuously evolving over time (Hanna, 2004). One of the key motivations for consumers purchasing luxury products includes a desire for the prestige associated with the brand (Lo & Yeung, 2020). Moreover, the consumption of luxury products is traditionally closely related to impression management tools and self-management tools (Rosendo-Rios, V & Shukla, P, 2023). Therefore, exploring the relationship between Affordable luxury consumption and impression management and self-management tools is crucial. It can significantly impact understanding how consumers perceive and consume Affordable luxury products. Despite its importance, there is insufficient specific research on the relationship between these tools and the consumption of Affordable luxury. In this study, we aim to explore the relationship between the consumption of Affordable luxury and self-management, seeking to enhance understanding of how consumer motivations for self-management and impression management influence the selection and usage of products. Additionally, the research findings enable the analysis of characteristics related to impression management and self-management among Affordable luxury consumers. Based on these characteristics, businesses can anticipate patterns associated with Affordable luxury preferences and develop effective marketing strategies in advance.

ABSTRACT. This research aims to analyse consumers’ (Millennials and Gen Z) luxury consumption behaviour by focusing on the intrinsic and extrinsic motivations that drive consumption of luxury goods. Then, the study investigates whether they prefer to purchase offline or online for luxury goods. Lastly, it analyses which media most influences individuals when it comes to luxury consumption. An online survey is developed and distributed to Millennials and Gen Z. A first round of data collection took place in 2022 and a second round of data collection will take place at the beginning of 2024. Initial findings show that consumers are driven by intrinsic rather than extrinsic motivations when purchasing and who influences more when buying luxury online. Furthermore, it emerges that consumers prefer to shop offline, highlighting the importance of physical stores.

ABSTRACT. Digital platforms have democratised access to the fashion industry, once said to have been notoriously shielded by gatekeepers such as the fashion editor. Today, fashion’s end consumers rely less on such gatekeepers who hold industry specific knowledge, but instead, “follow” social media influencers who have shifted control from the sender (e.g. luxury fashion brand) to an empowered receiver (e.g. consumer) (Esteban-Santos et al., 2018). Together with a growing dependence on other boundary-breaking technologies, the relevance of traditional gatekeepers has been questioned, as is the holistic process of value creation within this fluctuating ecosystem. Building upon contemporary service dominant logic (SDL) literature on service ecosystems, as well as the composition of value codestruction (Plé, 2017), our research zooms into the empirical context of the luxury fashion industry. Through thematic analysis, results help shine a new light on how we view SDL in regard to operant resources, the complexities of diverse ecosystem actors, and value extraction. Our theoretical contribution is to add to SDL literature with a phenomenon we call the co-abduction of value through the democratisation of primary value creation, connecting to previous findings on consumer empowerment (Cambier et al., 2020; Zha et al, 2023). The importance of this finding is to highlight how the micro and macro level processes of a field can lead industry actors to manipulate value creation in what was previously a highly territorial industry. Our contribution highlights the mechanisms through which value creation can be appropriated, destroyed and reconfigured by a range of newly empowered “outside” actors thanks to the promises of ongoing digital disruption; an immense opportunity – and challenge - for practitioners and enthusiasts of luxury fashion.

ABSTRACT. Using brand-related user-generated content (BR-UGC) as a form of digital promotion, this study investigates how such content can enhance advertising effects, and thus promote purchase intention in virtual environments. In this process, we reveal the implications for luxury brand marketing by parsing the impact of different levels of brand-related UGC and the effects of virtual brand experience on consumer behavior. The value of this study lies in clarifying the development of luxury brand marketing and the role played by BR-UGC as a digital promotional tool in influencing advertising effects, contributing to the knowledge and practice of digital marketing by digital marketing researchers and related practitioners. This study provides a framework for examining luxury brand marketing and the virtual experience, thus revealing that BR-UGC can be used as a digital promotional tool. The study also uncovers important results on the impact of the interaction between BR-UGC and the virtual brand experience on advertising effects. By clarifying the interactive effects of brand-related UGC and virtual brand experience on advertising effects, this study contributes to the literature on forms of luxury brand promotion and virtual experiences in the Metaverse's digital age. The findings also provide practical implications for how luxury brands can use digital tools for promoting and increasing active consumer engagement.

ABSTRACT. This paper explores the intersection of sustainability, technology and the fashion supply chain, with a focus on the "Made in Italy" perspective. In an era where fast fashion dominates consumer markets, the need for sustainable practices and transparency in the supply chain has become paramount. The research delves into the complexity of global supply chains in the fashion industry, highlighting the emergence of digital innovations such as blockchain and Digital Product Passports (DPPs) as crucial tools for enhancing traceability and transparency. Through qualitative research and interviews with industry professionals, insights into the Italian fashion supply chain ecosystem are revealed. The study emphasizes the importance of regulatory frameworks, such as the European Commission's initiatives on DPPs, in promoting transparency and informed consumer choices. While technology offers promising solutions, challenges remain in integrating blockchain and other digital tools across the fragmented landscape of Italian fashion SMEs. Overall, the paper provides a comprehensive analysis of the evolving dynamics within the fashion supply chain, underscoring the imperative for sustainable innovation and the preservation of the "Made in Italy" legacy.

ABSTRACT. Uniqlo’s silence during the Russian invasion of Ukraine in February 2022 prompted a consumer-led boycott of the brand on social media. As a consequence, the brand underwent a reputation crisis and was forced to suspend operations in Russia. This investigation aims to analyze Uniqlo’s communication strategy and how its followers reacted. Initially, a literature review was held regarding corporate activism on digital media and reputational crises in the fashion industry. Afterwards, quantitative and qualitative - namely netnography - methodologies were used to study relevant posts and interactions on the Instagram accounts of Uniqlo Global and Uniqlo Russia from February 20 to March 20, 2022. The findings of this investigation reveal the quantifiable nature of a boycott held in the social media arena, from its origins to its final consequences, and the financial and reputational implications for the company. The paper concludes with a reflection on the power that netizens can exercise over fashion brands through social media and the true impact that a boycott can have on the long term. The originality of this research resides in the application of a netnographic methodology on a case study that analyzes the fashion industry's involvement in an armed conflict.

ABSTRACT. Employees in fashion retail have been always a topic for human resources and marketing research and practice.

Last years, there is an evolution from the internal marketing point of view, with the idea of employees as brand ambassadors. However, the concept of ‘brand ambassador’ plays an important role in the fashion industry, with at least three distinct interpretations. The most common usage is that of a celebrity endorser formally designated by the fashion brand (Barron, 2019; Caan & Lee, 2023; Wigley, 2015). The term is also applied to a social media fashion influencer, who takes the initiative or is invited by a company to create online content endorsing their brand (Pedroni, 2022; Sanmiguel, Guercini & Sádaba, 2018; Smith, Kendall, Knighton &Wright, 2018). There is a third, and arguably older interpretation, namely the “employee brand ambassador”. This usage is less frequent in the fashion literature, even though the major brands are keenly aware of the importance of frontline employees and sales associates to connect with customers (Hui & Yee, 2015; Ton, Corsi & Dessain, 2010). The evolution of this concept has created a mix of those three meanings, with the arrival of the “influencer employee”, with some of the treats of the brand ambassador and some others from the fashion influencers’ field. Some fashion companies have done experiments with this new profile, such as Macy’s, H&M or Asos. However, there is no much literature on this concept neither data to explain the novelty of the so called “influencer employee”.

This paper tries to clarify the concept of “influencer employee”, inserting it in the tradition of the internal marketing, and to deepen into its main attributes with the aim to give some light to companies in their work in this area. Translating methodologies from the influencer’s and influence research, we get data from retail employees following the self-designation influence method (Jungnickel, 2018; Nejad, Sherrell & Babakus, 2014; SanMiguel & Sádaba, 2017; Sanz-Marcos, Jiménez-Marín & Elías, 2021). This method aims to look for perceived influence among employees and it is based on a five-point Likert-type scale format. Data obtained are classified in three different attributes to explain the influence a) demographic attributes b) knowledge attributes and c) social attributes. Results lead us to validate the methodology as a useful tool for fashion companies as a way to identify their influencer employees, and to deepen in some specific attributes specially oriented for fashion employees. With these results, the paper opens new research lines and gives some light about the possible implementations of the influencer employee role.

ABSTRACT. This study examines the compatibility of the "Made in Italy" brand with Industry 4.0 technologies, focusing on certified "100% Made in Italy" enterprises, primarily in the Fashion sector. It explores their utilization of new technologies within their processes. The research examines, from a theoretical standpoint, the phenomena of country of origin, regulatory aspects of the "Made in Italy" label and market changes that have led to a devaluation of the Italian country brand over time. Particular emphasis will be placed on the Fashion sector, which represents the cornerstone of Italian and European manufacturing and significantly contributes to the country's economic development. From an empirical perspective, the paper presents the results of primary research characterized by a quantitative approach. It analyzes the current state of digitalization, internationalization and adoption of new technologies by 57 certified "100% Made in Italy" companies, which represent the most authentic Made in Italy niche. Findings reveal a harmonious integration of tradition and innovation, enhancing processes while preserving the brand's authenticity.

ABSTRACT. The phenomenon of digitalization has impacted most industries, from organizations and processes to users’ daily lives. In the latter's case, new technology-based solutions consistently emerge in the market, rapidly expanding the pool of available options for consumers. In the case of the fitness industry, the sales of products and services such as wearables and fitness apps have been growing year by year. Furthermore, the increased health consciousness (Jimenez, Mayo & Copeland, 2020) brought by COVID-19, along with the lockdown restrictions, have contributed greatly to the expansion of digital fitness. Current research on this field also largely includes studies on user behavior and perception, mainly in technology adoption contexts. However, with technology’s growing ability to handle complete ranges of tasks, new questions may arise. In hybrid environments such as fitness, choosing a professional’s service is no longer a straight-forward decision with the advent of such solutions. A clear example are smart fitness applications enhanced by AI algorithms (Farrokhi, Farahbakhsh, Rezazadeh & Minerva, 2021), which are able to perform similar tasks generally associated with human personal trainers. Observing the emotional and cognitive underlying dynamics of users’ decision-making processes within this context is a direction worth exploring. The potential implications that may derive could guide the development and improvement of this kind of technologies or even enhance synergy between technology and human-based labor, considering the path that the industry is taking according to experts. The research presented has the goal of creating an initial understanding of the way users perceive technology doing tasks instead of humans in the context of digital fitness and how this influences technology adoption, taking AI fitness trainer apps as the technology to be considered. In this regard, a structural model is developed based on Davis’ Technology Acceptance Model (1985) and extended with a new variable, Perceived Labor Substitution, which measures to what extent an individual believes that an AI trainer works and offers the same benefits as a human trainer. The results confirm the power of TAM’s original variables as predictors of intention, namely Perceived Usefulness, Perceived Ease of Use and Attitude Towards Using. On the other hand, Perceived Labor Substitution, surprisingly did not show any relation with Attitude Towards Using, which leads to Behavioral Intention. Although further research is needed to confirm that there is no link between these variables, if this theory should be supported it would lead to important implications not only for researchers, but also for developers and companies. Such conclusion would mean that potential users may not take into consideration direct comparisons with the human counterpart when evaluating fitness technology-based products or services. Thus, “substituting humans” would become a minor aspect to pay attention to in technology development, in favor of strengthening and improving instead technology’s specific way of performing a task, which should ideally fit a certain target different from the one that prefers a human-based solution.

ABSTRACT. Past sport studies on the trickle-down effect have yielded varied outcomes, where some indicate minimal impact, while others propose occurrences, particularly among specific demographics like the youth and in specific regions such as the hometowns of medal-winning athletes. Nevertheless, to date, studies directly investigating the role of media in assessing the trickle-down effect of mega-sporting events have been limited. By using pooled OLS regression, we empirically analyze the trickle-down effects of Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games and its impact on sport participation in Korea. Specifically, the number of athletes, medals won, and amount of media coverage for 33 Olympic sports across 17 regions was examined. Data was regressed by gender (i.e., male and female) and age (i.e., adults and children under 18 years old) across a total of four models, first examining the change in sport participation after one year to capture the short-term effects, followed by the change in sport participation after two years to measure for long-term effects. Findings are expected to provide crucial empirical insights into the trickle-down effects of mega sporting events. Furthermore, incorporating metrics such as media exposure, previously not examined in prior studies will contribute to a more comprehensive understanding of the mechanisms underlying the trickle-down effect in sports.

ABSTRACT. The FIFA World Cup is the most popular sporting event globally. According to FIFA, the final match between Argentina and France in the 2022 FIFA World Cup Qatar reached a global audience of 1.5 billion viewers. In South Korea, 2,263,764 fans watched the last group match against Ghana through the live streaming of Naver, a portal site. As a such, an increasing number of people are opting to watch sports events through internet or mobile-based platforms instead of traditional television. In this context, the analysis of audience demand for streaming sports has become another area of research with the evolution of telecommunication technologies to deliver sports events to fans. Researchers have taken an approach to identify the most relevant factors predicting audience demand for streaming sports, but there has not been any unifying framework for classifying the determinant factors. This is because factors affecting sports fans' demands for sports programs vary based on the unique features and culture of each respective sports event. The purpose of the current study is to explore the determinants of demand for live streaming for the 2022 FIFA World Cup Qatar. To accomplish this goal, we collected the total viewership of each match (64 matches) from Naver, which relayed the live TV broadcasting of four terrestrial channels of three broadcasters: KBS, MBC, and SBS. The data were analyzed through regression analysis using STATA 18. The findings are as follows: First, the starting time is negatively associated with view count. On the other hand, the sum of goals is positively associated with view count. Estimated coefficients on game uncertainty, star player, or match type are not statistically significant. Second, fans do not show a preference for a weekend and late-night match but prefer 7 pm and 10 pm matches. Lastly, the presence of star players is not always a critical factor that affects fans' viewership. Theoretical and practical implications are discussed.

ABSTRACT. Luxury brands in the fashion industry often incorporate human-like elements in product design. How does this anthropomorphism effect operate for luxury brands that value a sense of luxury? Anthropomorphic product designs have been noted to garner positive responses from consumers across various product categories. One of the mechanisms by which anthropomorphism produces positive effects is the sense of familiarity that anthropomorphism brings. When an object has human-like elements, consumers feel interpersonal warmth toward the object, develop familiarity with the brand, and as a result develop favorable attitudes toward the product. Luxury brands may thus need to be cautious about adopting anthropomorphism in their product designs. In general, luxury brands evoke a sense of luxury and aspiration. In this regard, when there is psychological distance, people tend to attribute power and social status to the target. In other words, if luxury brands avoid familiarity, they may be able to maintain the image of luxury they seek to convey. In this study, we conducted a survey focusing on the differences in the roles of luxury brands’ first line and second line (diffusion brand). The results showed the participants judged that personification should not be adopted in the design of products in the mainline, which represents the first line of luxury brands. Respondents rated non-anthropomorphic products as having a more luxurious feel than those with anthropomorphic features. Conversely, products with anthropomorphic features were evaluated as more approachable than non-anthropomorphic products, making them more suitable for the second line of a luxury brand. The findings of this study suggest that product designers of luxury brands can effectively utilize anthropomorphism in product development to attract new consumers to the brand’s doorstep.

ABSTRACT. Decades after internet creation, society still does not understand the entirety impact it has on consumer behavior. The idea that everyone has a platform to speak and be heard changed relationships within our coexistence. With brand-consumer’s relation, it could not have been different: while communication in traditional advertising was once unidirectional (from companies to customers), it has now transformed into a bidirectional exchange among consumers (Liu & Lopez, 2014). It is easier to generate fast spreading Electronic Word of Mouth (EOM) and impact brand’s reputation. In this scenario, the phenomena named “cancel culture” is born. The term refers to consumers actively withdrawing their support from a particular company, individual, or brand (Mohsen, 2022). This reshaping of narrative protagonazed by users impact brand’s reputation. More specifically, for companies in the fashion luxury sector, which rely on their prestige and desirability, the consequences can be irreparable.

On the last decade, three major luxury brands have been affected by “cancelation”: Dolce & Gabbana, with the Shanghai Fashion Show scandal in 2018; Prada with the Pradamalia crises in 2018; and, more recently, Balenciaga with the accusation of pedophilia endorsement in 2023. This research explores the evolving dynamics of luxury fashion brands in the context of the digital age, as those three emblematic cases are analyzed to understand if and how the negative Electronic Word of Mouth (EWOM) generated by those controversial campaigns had an impact of consumer’s behavior. The methodology combines nethnographic analysis of brands’ social media (Kozinets, 2015) and the correlation with financial results, providing a comprehensive understanding of how negative EWOM influences consumer choices and, consequently, brand success in the dynamic luxury fashion landscape. Theoretical, managerial, and societal implications are discussed.

ABSTRACT. This study critically analyzes the profound influence of data-fied consumers on the digitalized luxury branding landscape in China. It delves into the effects of digital communications and promotions by luxury brands, shaped by the unified reactions of a massive number of online consumers. Over the past forty years, China has become the world's second-largest luxury market, boasting the largest number of luxury consumers. Shanghai, in particular, ranks first among world cities with the highest percentage of luxury brand presence. Despite current geopolitical and economic uncertainties, China no doubt remains a crucial market for luxury brands. Moreover, the Chinese market has been highly digitalized, forcing global luxury brands to localize and experiment with interactive and gamified branding methods, incorporating omnichannel integration. On China’s digital mega-platforms, the dynamics of branding are easily influenced by interactions among brands and consumers, as well as among the consumers themselves. Chinese consumers have co-opted the data algorithms of various platforms, originally designed to understand their minds and behaviors, to reflect their collective preferences and will. Acting as powerful data currents, they reshape the meaning of branding messages, ultimately impacting the effects of branding. Case studies are used to illustrate how data-fied consumers empower themselves to influence luxury branding messages in digital spaces. For example, The Dolce & Gabbana’s pitfall in their video ad campaign, titled “DG Loves China,” provides an illuminating case. The brand lost its authority to interpret the intention and meaning of its branding message due to the fervent participation of Chinese netizens. This resulted in D & G products being pulled from Chinese market, fashion shows canceled, and the brand image tarnished. Due to growing nationalism and localism, Chinese luxury consumers frequently boycott luxury brands, with the effects of collective actions amplified by social media. Global brands such as Burberry, Calvin Klein, Versace, and Coach lost their China Ambassadors or spokespeople in 2021 due to their stance on Xinjiang cotton, or not representing Hong Kong, Macau, or Taiwan as part of China. Chinese luxury consumers enjoy significant power in cyberspace, strategically boycotting or promoting brands collectively. They precisely coordinate timing and platforms for actions in order to exert their massive influence together. When they are publicly engaged in communicating and interpreting the meanings of any designs or branding messages, in reality, they co-design and co-market the brands.

ABSTRACT. The consumers of luxury brands are getting younger, and their behavior with luxury brands and luxury product packaging is evolving. Anecdotal evidence from social media platforms shows that young consumers tend to keep the packaging from their luxury purchases and display it with great pride. While packaging has garnered research interest over the decades, to date, the motivations of why consumers tend to hold on to their luxury packaging has not been explored. This paper delves into the meaning derived from luxury packaging, and sheds light on the post-purchase journey of luxury packaging. Using a mixed-methods approach, we uncover the motivations of Generation Z (Gen Z) consumers’ propensity to interact with luxury packaging beyond the occasion of the luxury purchase. Luxury brand managers can gain insights on Gen Z’s post-purchase experience, develop more effective packaging strategies, and plan for the next wave of consumers by understanding the important role of packaging for Gen Z.

ABSTRACT. In the luxury industry, some products are mass-produced but traded at prices above the list prices. For luxury brands, high prices in the secondary market can lead to increased brand equity for luxury brands (Kleinhans & LaTour 2022). Nevertheless, there has been no research on which product characteristics are traded at higher prices in the secondary market. In this study, 59 representative models from 20 Swiss luxury watch brands were analyzed by QCA to determine what conditions lead to high prices in the secondary market. The results showed that two types of combinations of causal conditions lead to high prices on the secondary market. In both cases, the condition of being a family business brand was included, the most effective configuration had the historical factors, while the second most effective configuration had the model-specific factor with no historical factor. In the latter configuration, the historical factors were negated and the watch with a shorter history was applicable. As a discussion of these results, we show that history is important in the luxury business, as Kapferer & Bastien (2009, p. 93-94) advocated. However, for brands without a history, this study proved the importance of designing appropriate products, not creating a hypothetical history as Kapferer & Bastien (2009, p. 93-94) suggested. Future research should include the search for causal conditions that can be applied to watch brands with small production volumes and the applicability of the results of this study to other items in the luxury industry.

ABSTRACT. Since environmental degradation principally ensues from human activities, it is critical to uncover factors that could impel individuals to take such actions. Environmental concern and improved awareness about pro-environmental initiatives is essential but unfortunately is insufficient for generating enduring behavioral shifts. Advances have been made, in terms of understanding when environmental attitudes are predictive of pro-environmental behaviors (PEBs); appreciating the importance of perceived behavioral control over and accepting personal responsibility for environmental outcomes; and recognizing consumers’ perceptions of situational factors that impede vs. encourage pro-environmental behaviors. Yet, empirical inquiries into the broad justifications why individuals do (not) engage in PEBs are lacking. in this research we shed light on another explanation for the attitude-behavior gap: the justifications that consumers summon when explaining why they do or do not engage in sustainable behavior. Justifications are the reasons or excuses people give when not engaging in line with their environmental attitudes. According to cognitive dissonance theory, individuals seek to justify their behaviors, against their inconsistent stated attitudes, to reduce psychological tension. Different justifications could be summoned, depending on the nature, difficulty and trade-offs required for sustainable consumption. This research examines the extent to which the relationships between various pro-environmental attitudes (i.e., environmental locus-of-control, or ELOC) and pro-environmental behaviors (PEBs) are mediated by the various justifications summoned by consumers for explaining their inaction. With a sample of 276 consumers, we report on the scale development process which yielded operationalizations for a typology of 12 justifications: environmental moderation, moral licensing, indifference, non-salience, skepticism, transportation infrastructure, product infrastructure, social encouragement, social discouragement, economic priority, economic cost, and institutional. Using structural equations modelling, we examined the direct and indirect (as mediated by justifications) effects of ELOC on three categories of PEBs (green consumerism, recycling behaviors, and conservation behaviors). Implications for theory, practice, and public policy are discussed.

ABSTRACT. Through two experiments, this study demonstrates that being excluded (versus included) by others deteriorates the motivation to act prosocially, leading consumers to purchase sustainable fashion products less. This effect manifests when consumers have an interdependent self-construal.

ABSTRACT. The attitude-behavior gap in ethical consumption presents a challenge to socially responsible marketing. The current research, informed by literature on ethical consumption and attitudes, offers a novel measurement tool aimed at capturing consumers’ implicit ethical product attitudes, which have otherwise evaded marketing practitioners and scholars. Through a rigorous development process, findings across two national contexts converge to show that our implicit measure predicts ethical consumption beyond the effects of other variables, including explicit attitudes. Further, our Affect Misattribution Procedure (AMP) based implicit measure is relatively easy for researchers to implement using standard survey software and basic regression analyses.

ABSTRACT. Fashion objects are tangible carriers of social norms and cultural meaning, which consumers manipulate to achieve intentional representations of lifestyle, beliefs, and status. However, within current shifting contexts which highlight ethical, social, and environmental problematics associated with fashion consumption, an individual’s perceived ethical and ideological commitments have the capacity to surpass or overtake their personal taste and aesthetic standards in the selection of fashion objects. With ideology having a variety of identity implications giving individuals meaning and purpose, adherents to movements such as veganism organize via in-person and computer mediated communities that make central a common belief system, which comes to guide their consumption decisions. As part of a larger exploratory research investigating the interplay between veganism and fashion consumption, this research explores the role of online communities within the vegan fashion consumption context. In this, this paper reports findings arising from the qualitative data collection undertaken within four vegan-specific Australian online groups on social media platform Facebook which represent the virtual backstage site of both individual and collective identity formation. The findings illuminate a niche phenomenon observed within the groups which suggests that vegan community members utilize such groups of their perceived peer as a hivemind in crowdsourcing information to bridge the gap between their vegan identity and their multi-faceted consumer selves. Through this, online communities become spaces that support and enable one’s consistent and authentic vegan identity. This research offers a more nuanced understanding of vegan consumption, or consumption through an ideologically and ethically oriented lens, focusing on vegan values, goals and objectives while engaging with fashion objects.

ABSTRACT. Retailers are venting new options for last mile delivery to reduce their environmental impact, but consumers are still not completely aware of that. This study explores how the way last mile delivery options are communicated influences consumers' sustainable choices (i.e., consumers’ pick-up point adoption). Specifically, through a series of experiments, we demonstrate that the use of concrete information to communicate the environmental impact of last mile delivery options drives consumers sustainable choices. This study challenges the current literature and assumes that information concreteness is enhanced when the environmental impact is expressed through metaphorical information instead of numbers (e.g., percentages, kilograms, or liters of CO2 saved) as it stimulates imagery elicitation and helps in creating a concrete quantification of the impact. Study 1 tests the relationship between information concreteness (metaphorical information vs numerical information) on imagery elicitation. Then, it shows the impact of information concreteness on last mile delivery consumption (specifically, pick-up point selection) via imagery elicitation. Finally, the external validity of this study will be further enhanced through a field experiment in collaboration with a fashion retailer (still ongoing). The findings corroborate study’s assumptions. This study contributes to the existing literature on sustainable communication and last-mile delivery, providing practical insights for online retailers seeking to minimize their environmental impact associated with delivery services.

ABSTRACT. This systematic literature review aims to analyze the main academic themes and discussions related to materiality in sustainability reporting research. Sustainability materiality is one of the most important principles in accounting and sustainability reporting research. It serves as a guide for companies to identify, assess, and prioritize their corporate sustainability practices, as well as determine which sustainability information and performance should be disclosed in their sustainability reports. This principle takes into account the importance and impacts of specific environmental, social, and governance (ESG) issues to their business and the interests of their stakeholders.

In recent years, the fashion industry has made significant progress in enhancing its sustainability commitments. This heightened focus is driven by the necessity to meet stakeholder expectations and address pressing environmental and social challenges, such as climate change, social inequalities, and environmental degradation. As a result, an increasing number of fashion companies are voluntarily disclosing their sustainability policies, practices, performance, and targets. They are utilizing a variety of international sustainability reporting standards and frameworks, including the Global Reporting Initiative (GRI), Sustainability Accounting Standards Board (SASB), International Integrated Reporting Council (IIRC), Task Force on Climate-related Financial Disclosures (TCFD), and Carbon Disclosure Project (CDP). These frameworks provide guidance and structure for companies to effectively communicate their sustainability efforts. However, the proliferation of international sustainability reporting frameworks has raised concerns about sustainability materiality. These frameworks vary in their definitions, scopes, and reporting requirements, affecting the content (i.e., financial, economic, social and environmental) and the level of impact of the information (i.e., significance, magnitude, and relevance). Therefore, there is an urgent need for greater consistency and comparability in ESG disclosures to enable users of sustainability reports to make justified conclusions for their investment. This is crucial for ensuring transparency, accuracy, quality, and comparability of information in ESG disclosures across different standards, industries, sectors, and even countries.

To explore key academic themes of sustainability materiality in ESG reporting, this study employed a topic modeling analysis to identify prevalent themes and topics in sustainability reporting research. A total of 9856 articles sourced from Scopus, and 55 articles were chosen for scientometric analysis, which involved 100 iterations using a generative AI system to ensure reliability. The outcomes of this study revealed nine key themes, encompassing 60 topics. These themes include: 1) the impact and effectiveness of ESG frameworks, 2) standardization and consistency, 3) stakeholder engagement and disclosure, 4) materiality and relevance, 5) integration with business strategy, 6) assurance and verification, 7) regulatory frameworks and compliance, 8) metrics and measurement, and 9) reporting and disclosure. This investigation contributes to providing an overview of the current state of knowledge on sustainability materiality in ESG reporting and sheds light on the key areas of focus in this field.

ABSTRACT. The rise of fast fashion fosters overconsumption, fuelling a throw-away culture that is detrimental to the environment and society. Buying second-hand clothing promotes circularity and sustainability. This research delves into the consumption values that drive second-hand clothing purchases to inform strategies for encouraging sustainable consumer behaviour to curb overconsumption.

ABSTRACT. Sustainable development goals reflect sustainability in multiple aspects of life from both business and consumers. In the Metaverse world, luxury brands and their consumption are working towards adopting sustainability in luxury fashion. The scholarship has stretched to multiple aspects across various themes and sectors to understand the developments in this field. It is apparent that sustainability and luxury have been the subject of scrutiny since long, but a refreshing perspective on this evolving dynamic is needed to analyze the surge in publications. This research aims to identify the existing literature in the area and gain in-depth knowledge of current trends with the help of bibliometric analysis. Further, the study aims to determine different clusters and identify the directions for future research in the sustainable luxury fashion domain.

ABSTRACT. Social enterprises, embracing the triple bottom line also known as the 3Ps: people, planet, and profit (Elkington, 1998) have challenged traditional fashion systems by prioritising purpose over profit. These enterprises serve as change-makers in the industry, advocating for ethical working conditions, sustainable livelihoods, and responsible production. Among these social enterprises, there is one type that provides skills training in textile design and production to people from varying backgrounds and socio-economic classes, particularly those from disadvantages communities and marginalised groups. Additionally, they collaborate with local sustainable fashion brands and retailers to product their collections. The present research focuses on the role of these social enterprises in East London fashion cluster, aiming to explore their contribution to sustainable and ethical practices in the fashion industry. According to the Fashion District Report (2019), 23% of London’s social enterprises and employment in the fashion industry are situated in East London, driving growth in design, retail, and manufacturing. This research aims to investigate the role of East London social enterprises in promoting sustainability and ethical practices. The study employs a qualitative case study approach, conducting interviews with social enterprise representatives and focus groups with trainees. The objective is to understand how the training provided by these enterprises impacts the lives of individual trainees and how these enterprises contribute to the East London fashion cluster.

ABSTRACT. The UK fashion industry is defined by factors such as short product life cycles, high demand volatility, low predictability and impulse buying. All these factors contribute to the proactivity of retailers in trend determination and sufficiently bringing product to market on time so as to maximise margins and reduce inventory. This extended abstract briefly surveys a social media sentiment analysis of nine UK-based fashion retailers over a three-year period (January 2020 to December 2022). Part of a larger longitudinal study, this paper explores conversation about governance-related issues by identifying and measuring net sentiment on specific governance related topics. One of the principal governance challenges in the fashion industry is the lack of accountability and transparency in retailers’ supply chains. Less than a third of major fashion brands currently disclose their supply-chain operations, which makes it difficult for consumers and regulators to hold retailers accountable for any unethical practices. Primark (39.0%) held the largest proportion of governance conversations, followed by H&M (20.4%) and Next (12.9%). This is to be expected when considering the significant overlap between governance and other sustainability-related conversations that link directly to the brands’ actions and policies around social and environmental issues. The conversation overlap between governance and social considerations also extends to the events that triggered spikes in conversation volume. In addition, while social consideration sentiment focused on the actual social issue at hand, governance conversations were more focused on the policies surrounding these issues. Customers also criticised various brands for their employment policies and practices, especially during the Covid-19 pandemic. Stories of staff having lost their jobs or being forced to come to work out of fear of losing their jobs raised questions about the fairness of these policies. Brands such as ASOS, Next, and JD Sports were accused of prioritising profits over people, due to reports of forced labour, a lack of social distancing, and low or unpaid wages. These reports prompted widespread calls for non-essential retailers to shut down their operations or change their policies to better protect workers, with some social media users urging customers to boycott the affected brands. Positive mentions were related to company finances, particularly sales, revenue, and profit growth, which were seen as a sign of good governance. Associations with other brands and organisations also helped spread positivity around company governance, particularly in facilitating CSI and ESG initiatives. This study is a step towards building more theory around the impact of governance on fashion loyalty and switching behaviour through the lens of social media sentiment.

ABSTRACT. While artisan handcrafted fashion possesses a well-established cultural heritage in India, the sustainable fashion market in this country is also gaining momentum. This research investigates drivers of success and threat of the sustainable fashion market which builds on the Indian traditions and adheres to principles of sustainability. Sustainability is considered here as a broad value chain concept comprising eco-friendly harvested raw materials and clean manufacturing processes, fair working conditions for employees, non-aggressive marketing practices, and ethical management conduct. On the positive side, rising awareness and disposable income in India is steadily increasing which facilitates purchasing, usually premium-priced, sustainable fashion items. Despite sustainable fashion being a niche market, its potential is significant given the 1.4 billion inhabitants of India. On the negative side, the many players in the value chain make it difficult to control all aspects of the sustainability and stability of the supply chain. In particular, interviewed managers reported considerable difficulties in safeguarding the supply chain.

ABSTRACT. The fourth industrial revolution has brought significant changes in the business landscape, introducing disruptive technological and cultural shifts that give rise to new services and technologies. Among these, blockchain has emerged as a crucial player due to its ability to store various types of transactions. Its potential has generated growing interest across different sectors. Current research on blockchain largely focuses on its different applications, due to increasing user interest and concerns about the consequences of the climate crisis. The fashion industry has become a focal point, characterized by mass production, limited product quality and environmental impact. The sector contributes to 8-10% of global carbon emissions, surpassing the combined emissions of aviation and shipping industries. Concerns about sustainability have led consumers to prefer second-hand fashion over fast fashion brands. Blockchain technology presents itself as a potential solution to address the trust gap in the fashion industry. It enables the tracking of materials throughout the entire lifecycle of a product, offering customers detailed information about raw materials and providing them with means to make conscious and sustainable choices. This study aims to explore consumers' opinions and concerns regarding blockchain in the fashion industry, with a focus on understanding their knowledge and perceptions. An online survey conducted in October 2023 gathered data from 162 participants, revealing the significant importance of environmental issues for young consumers, particularly those of Generation Z, the main supporters of second-hand and vintage clothing due to their awareness of the negative effects of fast fashion. Gen Z shows a lack of clear understanding of blockchain technology and its potential in tracking and verifying the production processes of clothing and materials, although they claim to be in favor of breakthrough innovations. The study suggests that addressing the knowledge gap among young consumers regarding blockchain technology is crucial, potentially through educational initiatives. Simultaneously, the fast fashion industry is encouraged to consider the application of blockchain as a strategic approach to establish stronger communication channels with sustainability-conscious customers and to gain a long-term advantage over competitors in the fashion industry.

ABSTRACT. Current industry approaches to clothing fit are inherently flawed (Wren and Gill, 2010), leading to a widespread experience of inadequate clothing fit. This is a sustainability concern, as clothing fit is suggested to have a significant impact on consumer behaviour such as length of active use and premature disposal (Niinimäki, 2017; Neto and Ferreira, 2023). No study to date specifically addresses how and why clothing fit has these impacts on consumer behaviour. Further, no research explores the potential of innovative approaches to improving clothing fit in encouraging more sustainable consumer behaviour. Specifically, this research addresses the use of 3D body scanning and digital pattern drafting in the production of bespoke clothing (a radical change from current mass-manufactured approaches to fit) in order to fill this specific gap in knowledge. Wardrobe studies are approached through a social practice theory lens to explore and understand the behaviours associated with well and poorly fitted garments. Findings indicate clothing fit to play a key role in achieving a positive wear experience, and thus well-fitted garments are worn more regularly and for longer. Analysis of data is used to develop a diary survey to assess the potential of bespoke clothing in facilitating use longevity. Participants have been body scanned and have had three bespoke garments manufactured for them, and with each wear log their experience through the developed online survey tool. Results will give an indication of the potential use of innovative bespoke fit technologies in encouraging more sustainable consumer behaviour. Findings will have implications for fashion retailers aiming to implement slow business models, by giving an indication of fit as a physical garment attribute that can be manufactured into a garment through technical innovation, and that will encourage longevity and delayed disposal.

Neto, A. & Ferreira, J. (2023). ‘Lasting bonds: Understanding wearer-clothing relationships through interpersonal love-theory’ Fashion Theory, pp. 1-31. DOI: 10.1080/1362704x.2023.2170706. Niinimaki, K. (2017). ‘Aesthetical or rational: Gender differences in ethical fashion consumption’ Journal of Consumer Ethics, 1 (2), pp. 7-18. Wren, P. & Gill, S. (2010). ‘Industry fit practices and the issues that impact on good garment fit’, Proceedings of the 100th Textile Institute World Conference, The University of Manchester, UK. 2-4 November 2010. Available at: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/299868037_Industry_fit_practices_and_the_issues_that_impact_on_good_garment_fit.

ABSTRACT. The "who comes first" dilemma refers to the challenge of implementing the servitization model in manufacturing firms despite rapid technical advancements, which might lead to a paradoxical situation of which capability to focus first “Social or technological”. For this purpose, it is necessary to carefully examine the historical development of the concept and how the necessary capabilities and technologies have evolved over time. This will enhance the comprehension of manufacturing firms in the process of adopting technologies and cultivating associated capabilities. This paper presents a chronological overview of the development of servitization over the past 50 years. This paper presents a conceptual framework that draws on socio-technical system theory and lessons from the past. The framework highlights the importance of integrating the absorptive capacity of managers, the dynamic capabilities of employees, and the technological competencies of firms to fully realize the potential of servitization.

ABSTRACT. Despite the relevance of self-benefits in fashion brand advertising, combining other- and self-benefits still frequently backfires (Wei & Jung, 2022; Ryoo et al., 2020). While consumption traditionally happens to support personal gains (Song & Kim, 2019; Hasbullah et al., 2022), especially for non-essential goods like fashion (Wei & Jung, 2022), sustainability is inherently serving the collective benefit of others. To overcome this suggested contradiction, past sustainable marketing research has examined how these self-serving versus other-serving (or collective) benefits can be included in advertising to increase effectiveness (Hyun et al., 2021; Ryoo et al., 2020). As such, recent research posits that a combination of other- and self-benefits may increase sustainable consumption intentions (Bazaraa et al., 2022; Williams & Hodges, 2022). However, there is a paucity of research that investigates the effectiveness of the combination of different types of self-benefits with the other-benefit of sustainability in fashion marketing. To that end, the current study adopts an experimental approach to explore how advertising other-benefits combined with different self-benefits, i.e. intrinsic benefit (focusing on the good feeling of helping others) and image-benefit (emphasizing the social status a person may achieve), influences consumption intentions of sustainable fashion. More specifically, the mediating effect of warm glow is examined, by testing if different types of self- and other-benefit framing trigger different the dimensions of perceived intrinsic and extrinsic warm glow (Andreoni, 1990). Findings of a multi-factorial experiment reveal the central role of warm glow in sustainable fashion marketing. By advertising different self-benefits alongside the other-benefit of sustainability, fashion brands may elicit both intrinsic and extrinsic warm glow. However, the positive effect of benefit framing is contingent on consumer value orientation, with enhancement and transcendence value orientation explaining differences in consumer reactions. This research offers novel insights into the interplay of other- and self-benefits in sustainable fashion marketing by addressing consumers' affective reactions. Moreover, the results contribute to the conceptual application of warm glow theory as based on message framing in sustainable fashion branding.

ABSTRACT. This research combines the experiential recommendation literature, which distinguishes between material vs. experiential brands, using sentiment analysis to investigate customers' conversations with material or experiential brands' support accounts on X (previously Twitter). The results demonstrate significant differences in how online support conversations of experience versus material brands evolve sentimentally.

ABSTRACT. Over the last few years, luxury brands, such as Dior, Louis Vuitton, and Gucci, have been expanding into the food and beverage (F&B) business, providing gastronomic experiences to their consumers. Such brand extension is an adaptive strategy to satisfy consumers’ needs for experiential luxury consumption. Further, social media plays a leading role in increasing consumer engagement and connecting them with luxury brands. Along with these trends in the luxury market, by drawing on the uses and gratifications theory and self-determination theory, this study aims to delve into the social media sharing motivations of US and Korean consumers based on gastronomic experiences of luxury brands. This study employed a qualitative approach by using the Leximancer analysis method. Consequently, US consumers were motivated to share the gastronomic experience from luxury brands via social media for recommendations about food services and recording special moments and memories with loved ones. On the other hand, Korean consumers posted the atmosphere at luxury brands’ restaurants and cafes on social media to show off their experiences with friends, record their daily lives, and express their thoughts about luxury brands. Our findings encourage luxury brands to establish suitable social media marketing strategies to extend their F&B business across different cultures.

ABSTRACT. In recent years, there has been a growing emphasis on mindful consumption (MC) and sustainability among consumers. MC involves being aware of the origins and impacts of the products one purchases, and intentionally making choices that align with one's values to support ethical companies and reduce social and environmental harm (Gupta & Sheth, 2023; Sheth et al., 2011). As public discourse continues weighing the societal impacts of overpurchasing, overconsumption and waste (Parker, Umashankar & Schleicher, 2019), social media has become an important avenue through which values around consumption and responsible spending are shaped and spread interpersonally through informal role models including those values that relate to sustainable fashion consumption (Vladimirova et al., 2023).

In particular, a new group of social media activists called “deinfluencers” has emerged who leverage their visibility to advocate for simplified, sustainable and more ethical lifestyles. Deinfluencers directly contrast mainstream social media influencers who conspicuously display aspirational outfits and the newest product releases, by encouraging their followers to resist consumerism and reconsider notions of status and well-being gained through the accumulation of material possessions (Karimi, 2023). Past research has examined how traditional social media influencers drive consumption intentions and behaviors through psychological mechanisms like parasocial interaction and peer conformity (Djafarova & Trofimenko, 2019; Sokolova & Kefi, 2020). However, the ways in which deinfluencers may leverage social connections and emotions to shift consumer behavior to more sustainable consumption choices have not been studied. Significant gaps in understanding remain regarding the underlying psychological mechanisms explaining how deinfluencer persuasion takes place and how they may shape followers’ emotional reactions, spending habits and MC intentions.

This paper aims to address this gap by presenting several hypotheses about the psychological outcomes of perceived homophily with a deinfluencer and how these emotions link to intentions for MC. By doing so, this paper aims to make several contributions. First, we explore whether deinfluencer messaging can increase sustainable consumption intentions through eliciting emotions like pride and guilt. This expands research on influencer marketing to the growing domain of anti-consumption advocacy. Second, we study “homophily” (perceived similarity) with a deinfluencer as the mechanism eliciting emotional and behavioral responses from followers. This tests the assumption that influence stems from parasocial bonds, even in contexts discouraging typical consumption. Third, we shed light on willingness to pay price premiums for sustainable products when one feels emotions such as pride and guilt related to responsible consumption. This insight can help brands develop better targeted sustainability messaging.

ABSTRACT. In recent years, social media influencers have utilized their platforms to generate awareness of social concerns and social movements, such as Black Lives Matter. Several non-profit organizations and retailers have collaborated with influencers to endorse social causes and convey their commitment to social responsibility to the public. Therefore, it is important to closely investigate influencers' socially responsible communication on social media, as it is still in its early stages but has become widespread. Considering the nascent state of research in this domain, the objective of this study was to explore the message content of influencers' socially responsible communication in order to establish fundamental knowledge for subsequent research. Social media post data were gathered from Instagram, targeting fashion influencers publicly communicating about a social cause. These posts specifically mentioned "Unicef," which is a prominent global charity that has actively partnered with influencers to raise funds for children's welfare and promote social consciousness on a global scale. Semantic network analysis was conducted to examine the message contents, using NodeXL. The results of the study suggest that influencers effectively 1) convey the charity's specific commitments and social effects, 2) express gratitude for the partnership, 3) use hashtags, 4) share personal experiences at charity events, and 5) directly urge consumers to take action for children. These are unique features compared to how companies communicate social causes and commitments. The findings demonstrate the nature of social media communication and the close relationship between influencers and customers. Such content might be the influencers' unique selling point, helping to successfully raise money and raise social consciousness. Future research should focus on statistically examining how the content of messages affects consumers, specifically in terms of their perception of authenticity and their propensity to participate in the campaign.

ABSTRACT. As sustainability becomes an integral component of brand messaging and business operations, there is a growing need for a localization strategy to address the demands and interests of local stakeholders in different markets. This shift necessitates a review of communication strategies to accommodate these changes, as highlighted by Kang and Sung (2022), who emphasize the importance of adapting to cross-cultural issues (Carranza et al., 2023). Interestingly, there is a scarcity of literature on how sustainable luxury is perceived among Chinese consumers, despite their projected representation of 35 to 40% of global luxury spending by 2030 (Bain, 2022). Consequently, further investigation into local values, such as Taoist and Confucian values, which are encouraged by the Government, holds significant importance (Wang et al., 2021; KPMG, 2023). The goal of this project is to identify (1) the challenges faced by international companies in localizing their communication on sustainability in China; (2) the discourses disseminated by key-opinion leaders (KOLs) in the local social media; (3) the discourses disseminated by users locally (user-generated content, hereafter, UGC). The triangulation of these three sets of data will shed light on potential overlapping and/or gaps in conceptualizing sustainability in Western and Chinese cultures. It will highlight different stakeholders’ perspectives and it may lead to a deeper cultural adaptation than mimicking the very well-established strategies used to market products. To achieve this goal this research will unfold into three studies. Study 1 will cover international brands’ perspectives in localizing sustainability discourses in China. Qualitative interviews will be conducted with twenty luxury brands’ representatives managing the Chinese market and China based consulting firms in branding and communication assisting international brands in targeting Chinese consumers. The interviews will be analyzed and codified, identifying key topics, challenges, and opportunities emerging through messaging localization strategies (Zeithaml et al., 2020). Study 2 will focus on the sustainability narratives used by KOLs in the local social media Weibo, Wechat, and Xiao Hong Shu (The Little Red Book). Study 3 will examine the sustainability narratives framed through UGC in these social media. Drawing upon corpus linguistics studies (Cheng, 2012), the datasets will be analyzed to identify keywords, and key concordances to understanding different stakeholders’ narratives. While Study 1 and 2 are currently being conducted, preliminary findings from study 3 shed light on the increasing narratives about minimalistic style and quiet luxury promoting a capsule wardrobe approach to consumption (Aravis Capital Podcast, 2023). This paper is based on an interdisciplinary framework adopting a linguistic methodology to solve business problems. It will contribute to the literature on brand narratives, addressing the localization of sustainability messaging with managerial implications for luxury brands adapting to global markets shifting values, and to theoretical debates.

ABSTRACT. The culture of buy-use-throw away has become prevalent in recent years in the fashion industry, leading to massive environmental pollution and social crises. To address the problems associated with the increase in clothing consumption, brands are beginning to engage in socially responsible marketing that promotes anti-consumption. The Spanish fashion brand Adolfo Dominguez, for instance, has been conducting anti-consumption advertising campaigns since 2018. This research aims to examine the impact of anti-consumption advertising on consumers' attitudes (CAT) and purchase intentions (PIs) regarding an apparel product, and to compare the results between two countries: Spain and Mexico. The Structural Equation Model (SEM) with the Smart-PLS analysis tool will be employed in this investigation. Although results are pending, this research shows promise in addressing the impact of anti-consumption advertising on purchase intentions in a fashion brand.

ABSTRACT. This study aims to provide sustainability communication strategies for luxury fashion brands. The findings indicate perceived objectivity and authenticity of sustainability information messages enhance trust in luxury brands. Employing AI for sustainability communication also achieve brand trust comparable to human employees when consumers perceive the brand as highly luxurious.

ABSTRACT. This study delves into Gen Z's demands for transparency in fashion. Through in-depth interviews with Gen Z consumers, key transparency themes are identified. The findings offer valuable managerial implications for brands seeking to engage with Gen Z and provide a deeper understanding of this generation’s attitude behavior gap regarding sustainability.

ABSTRACT. The focus on sustainability within the fashion industry is growing rapidly. This study explores the impact of brand personality on consumer reactions to green marketing as well as in fashion industry. Across two online experimental studies, we examine how two brand personalities (i.e., excitement and sophistication) influence consumers react to green marketing (Study 1) and greenwashing attempts (Study 2). The findings from Study 1 indicated that an exciting brand evokes significant changes in consumer attitudes as a result of green marketing, whereas a sophisticated brand does not yield such effects. Study 2 revealed that greenwashing attempts made by brands with an exciting (vs. sophisticated) personality led to higher perceptions of brand hypocrisy, feelings of betrayal, and skepticism towards the pro-environmental activities.

ABSTRACT. This paper captures the connection between Sustainable Integrated Marketing Communications (IMC), Brand Equity, and Brand Trust within the omnichannel fashion retail industry. The primary data from the customer survey is analyzed using structural equation modeling (SEM). The results indicate that sustainable IMC have a positive impact on Brand Equity and Brand Trust, and Brand Trust has a positive influence on Brand Equity. Moreover, Brand Trust partially mediates sustainable IMC and Brand Equity relationships. The study provides theoretical contributions to the research on marketing communications and brand management and practical implementations in the context of omnichannel fashion retail.

ABSTRACT. Sneaker e-commerce has seen a significant surge in recent years, with exclusive sneaker releases attracting a large and devoted consumer base. This trend has brought forth an intriguing area of study focussing on the influence of social factors on consumers’ buying behaviour in the context of buying and selling exclusive sneakers online. Consumers who identify themselves as avid sneaker enthusiasts are easily influenced by their social media platforms, engaging in online discussions and communities dedicated to sneakers, and the validation from their peers. The study aimed to gain a clearer understanding of the social factors that influence consumers’ purchase intention and post-purchase behaviour of exclusive sneakers. By means of an empirical study, 150 online surveys were distributed among Generation Z consumers to identify the influence of social factors and perceived value on their buying behaviour of exclusive sneakers. The proposed conceptual model tested five hypotheses and the analysis was done using SPSS27 by running multiple regression analysis to test the proposed relationships. The results from this study provide sneaker buyers and sellers with valuable insight into how consumers’ social environment influences their decision to buy a pair of exclusive sneakers, and their post-purchase behaviour.

ABSTRACT. The evolution of new digital technological platforms has provided businesses with numerous opportunities to improve their business models. This is especially prevalent in the world of Artificial Intelligence (AI), that provides user-friendly transactions between businesses and consumers (Thygesen, 2022). By means of personalisation, innovation and enhanced productivity, AI has had a dynamic impact on the clothing and textiles industry (Giri et al., 2020). For instance, the use of AI in fashion can benefit businesses with the use of robotics and intelligent manufacturing, 3-D printing and knitting, and virtual and augmented reality (Jin & Sin, 2021). These are all part of the Fourth Industrial Revolution (4IR) that is fundamentally shaping the way we live and work (Jin & Sin, 2021). AI has given businesses access to an enhanced understanding of consumer behaviour and motivations that drive their decisions. AI has allowed businesses to make complex decisions in a record time frame, something that is crucial to fashion, a trend-driven industry that’s survival is largely based on speed and turn-around-time (Abnett, 2016; Behrooz, 2023; Harreis et al., 2023; Rahman, 2020; Thygesen, 2022). Although AI can have a significant impact on the fashion industry as a whole, this study focusses on luxury fashion, an industry that is forecasted to increase profits to $275 Billion by 2028 (Harreis et al., 2023). Luxury brands are already harnessing the powerful advantages of AI to propel their brands forward in a competitive market (Behrooz, 2023; Harreis et al., 2023). Although larger businesses show easier access to AI, small and midsize enterprises (SME’s) could leapfrog into becoming market leaders with the assistance of AI (PwC, 2017). Within the realm of the 4IR, this study aims to investigate AI from three different perspectives: creating value, delivering value and capturing value, and its impact on consumers. The results of this study will provide luxury SME’s with in-depth insight on how to utilise AI-based business models that can contribute to the growth of the entrepreneurial economy in a developing country like South Africa.

ABSTRACT. Social media encourage user interaction through electronic word-of-mouth (e-WOM), which potentiates brand equity. However, luxury brands are cautious about their presence on social media because a ubiquitous environment might compromise their exclusivity positioning. Hence, luxury brands show reluctance in the adjustment to the online landscape while consumers increasingly interact on these platforms. Social media foster the expected social return derived from the contents published. This phenomenon is connected with conspicuous consumption. This paper analyses multifaceted effects of social media in luxury consumption through 1) the impact of e-WOM in the brand equity of luxury brands, 2) the effect of social media in conspicuous consumption of luxury brands and 3) the effect of expected social return in conspicuous consumption of luxury brands. The results of the three studies conducted with different samples show that social media is perceived as compatible with the exclusivity positioning of luxury brands. On the one hand, the e-WOM promoted in social media nurtures the brand equity of luxury brands. On the other hand, the social media environment and the expected social return gained favors conspicuous consumption of luxury brands. These findings contribute with knowledge to the field of fashion luxury marketing, sustaining that the exclusivity of luxury positioning is not only maintained in social media, but can also be nurtured through social media e-WOM, with effect in conspicuous consumption due to the social and expected social return.

ABSTRACT. Instagram's prominence in the realm of luxury fashion is a subject of continual interest and exploration. This study delves into the narrative elements employed by luxury fashion brands on Instagram and their correlation with user engagement. The overarching goal is to unravel the intricacies of Instagram's role in shaping brand narratives and fostering meaningful connections with the audience.

To unravel this dynamic relationship, a meticulous content analysis methodology was adopted to study the Instagram activity of 20 leading luxury fashion brands from July to December 2023. The detailed findings of this analysis promise to shed light on the complex dynamics of luxury fashion brands' communication strategies on Instagram. By understanding how narrative elements correlate with user engagement, this study contributes valuable insights to both academia and the practical realm of marketing and social media. In summary, this exploration into Instagram's dominance in luxury fashion, focusing on narrative elements and engagement, seeks to enrich our understanding of the evolving relationship between brands and their audience in the digital era.

ABSTRACT. Recently, emotional value has become relatively important in the luxury market. Erotic capital is a combination of the most powerful and diverse charms possessed by an individual. Despite the importance of understanding luxury brand consumption through the lens of erotic capital, little is known about it. This study aims to analyze the impact of luxury brands' erotic capital and values on lovemarks and consumer behavior. For this purpose, we conducted interviews with experts and conducted a survey targeting consumers with experience purchasing luxury brands. The results of the study showed that the luxury brand erotic capital had a positive effect on lovemark recognition and had a significant impact on e-WOM. Additionally, the moderating effect of purchasing power was confirmed. This study expands the theory of luxury brands and provides useful insights for practitioners to establish more practical and differentiated marketing strategies.

ABSTRACT. This research investigated the motives of young female consumers’ engagement with sustainability virtual influencers based on the source credibility model and goal-framing theory. A total of 366 participants were recruited. CFA result suggested that the measurement model was a good fit (χ2=926.18, df=470, p<.001, CMIN/df=1.97, CFI=.96, TLI= .95, RMSEA=.05, SRMR=.04). To assess the discriminant validity, HTMT criterion was used. The reliability of all constructs as measured by Cronbach’s alpha, CR, and AVE. SEM results showed that the model fit was good (χ2=941.74, df=474, p<.001, CMIN/df =1.99, CFI=.96, RMSEA=.05, SRMR=.06). Path analysis revealed that perceived expertise positively led to gain goal motivation (β=.19, t= 2.70. p<.01) and hedonic goal motivation (β=.19, t= 3.44. p<.001). Perceived expertise also positively led to gain goal motivation (β=.17, t= 2.54. p<.05) and hedonic goal motivation (β=.19, t= 3.69. p<.001). Perceived trustworthiness positively led to normative goal motivation (β=.27, t= 5.16. p<.001). Hedonic goal motivation (β=.15, t= 2.00. p<.05), and normative goal motivation led to virtual influencer engagement, respectively (β=.18, t= 2.46. p<.05). However, gain goal motivation did not lead to virtual influencer engagement (β=.07, t= .94. p=.35). Mediation analysis found that perceived expertise and perceived attractiveness had a significant indirect effect on virtual influencer engagement through hedonic goal motivation, and perceived trustworthiness had a significant indirect effect on virtual influencer engagement through normative goal motivation. The key findings of the research found that that brand marketers can utilize virtual influencers as a tool for promoting sustainability by creating enjoyable and novel posts. Moreover, young female consumers might perceive sustainability virtual influencers as suitable spokespersons for green products because they maintain a consistent ethical image.

ABSTRACT. Mobile shopping apps that have not only simplified but enhanced the shopping experience (Soni et al. 2019). Whilst research on fashion m-commerce is growing (Keem & Lee, 2018; Roxo & Brito, 2020; Llorens & Hernández, 2021), cohesive research is lacking and there is little research into second-hand fashion M-commerce applications (Jaska et al., 2022). Hence, this extended abstract will contribute to knowledge by reviewing the literature on consumer behaviour relating to fashion mobile application use. It will also investigate how this can be used to enhance the use of mobile applications that promote fast fashion alternatives. Through using template analysis to review the literature, themes will be induced to understand how to increase the sustainability of the clothing sector, with recommendations of how the retail industry can benefit from developing more sustainable fast fashion alternatives using mobile applications.

ABSTRACT. Generation Z consumers, those who are born between 1997 and 2012 (Siregar et al 2023) represent an important growing segment for fashion and luxury brands (Joshi &Garg 2021). These consumers are characterized by a prominent use of digital technology (Smith 2019) and social media are a fundamental component of their life, Instagram mainly. Specifically, they use social media to be inspired and to read reviews about a product but they still often purchase products offline (Statista Insights 2023). They exhibit very peculiar values and psychological traits that make them unique and special to interact with. The present study, through a single case study on the fashion brand Guess and adopting multiple methods of data collection, explores ways to effectively engage with Gen Z consumers and delve into understanding what they value in their physical and digital experiences with brands. Insights reveal that brands should consider Gen Z’s values as an enabler for creating meaningful engagement with this consumer group in both digital and physical environments.

ABSTRACT. With the emergence of apparel rental services within e-commerce, scarce studies empirically found the role of customers' photo reviews. Applying the theory of visual rhetoric, this study aimed to investigate the role of contextual background within customer photo reviews in shaping online apparel shoppers' behaviors. Further, this study examined the psychological mechanisms underlying the cognitive processing of visual rhetoric information with the application of the mental imagery process framework. Lastly, we investigated the boundary effect of novelty-seeking tendency in a relationship between visual rhetoric and behavioral intentions. Using SPSS 28, Process Macro model 6 revealed that behavioral intentions (i.e., product evaluation, rental intention, and subscription intention) are positively associated with contextualized background from customers' photo reviews through mental imagery and review helpfulness compared to white background customers' photo reviews. In addition, 2 (visual rhetoric: white vs. contextualized background of customers' photo reviews) x 2 (novelty-seeking: high vs. low) ANOVA on behavioral intentions revealed a boundary effect of novelty seeking; that is, higher levels of novelty-seeking aroused a stronger influence of visual rhetoric on all three behavioral intentions. The current study empirically demonstrates how peripherical cues in image review can significantly influence consumer decision-making in the online apparel rental context. Our findings suggest that managers encourage customers to share memorable moments from their experience. In addition, retailers might introduce augmented or virtual reality functions on their websites so that customers can decorate their backgrounds.

ABSTRACT. This paper discusses the digital transformation of the fashion industry, focusing on e-commerce and consumer behavior. It highlights the significant growth in the fashion e-commerce market, expected to reach $1.1 trillion by 2027. Key aspects of fashion e-commerce literature, including supply chain, consumer behavior, and marketing strategies, are reviewed. However, the paper notes a gap in research concerning the e-commerce shopping experience and purchase intent, particularly in relation to product pages. The background section emphasizes the importance of website design in e-commerce success, moving beyond usability to trust, engagement, and persuasion. Studies show that product pages are critical in influencing consumer behavior and purchase intentions. The fashion sector, as the largest B2C e-commerce market, has seen a shift in consumer behavior, with an increasing reliance on user-generated content (UGC), particularly product reviews, to inform purchase decisions. The study aims to analyze the relationship between product page design and consumer purchase intentions in fashion e-commerce. It proposes two main objectives: developing a KPI-based tool to evaluate the shopping experience on product pages and studying how these pages affect online purchase intentions. The methodology includes two studies. The first involves assessing 31 KPIs on the product pages of 42 fashion e-commerce brands, focusing on user experience, product information, user engagement, and social proof. The second study examines the impact of these KPIs on the purchase intentions of over 300 students, using surveys and statistical analysis techniques like correlation and regression analysis. The expected outcomes of the study are to provide insights into how different elements of online fashion product pages affect consumer purchase intentions. This research aims to offer practical guidance for fashion e-commerce brands to optimize their online presence and strategies, enhancing customer experience and driving sales. The study's findings are anticipated to be valuable both academically and practically in the fields of digital marketing and e-commerce strategy. The paper presents a detailed exploration of the role of product pages in fashion e-commerce, examining their impact on consumer behavior and purchase intentions. It underscores the importance of effective website design and the strategic use of KPIs in understanding and improving the online shopping experience in the rapidly growing fashion e-commerce sector.

ABSTRACT. This paper focuses on the development of a new content-analysis methodology and the study of short video content on TikTok, to further understand the historical relationship between Parisian tourism and fashion. Moreover, it aims to prove how short videos can be powerful marketing tools in the fashion and tourism fields.

ABSTRACT. Previous research emphasizes that cultural and social norms of beauty communicated via various media are influential factors that affect consumers’ ideal self-image formation. However, in the contemporary society, younger consumers are exposed to even more diverse stimuli across cultural boundaries. This trend has made a global beauty market more complex. To address this complexity, the present study investigates how various consumer segments sharing similar personal beauty values across cultures prioritize attributes of cosmetic products and associate with various cosmetic brands. The study integrates a consumer segmentation analysis employing a variational Bayesian stochastic model and combines a human beauty value theory and Keller’s customer-based brand equity model. We designed an online questionnaire in four languages targeting females and males with the age between 15 and 44 years from France, Germany, Japan, and the UK. The survey asked priorities of distinctive personal beauty values, importance of selected attributes of cosmetic products, and strengths of association of five selected brands with the selected attributes, and willingness to purchase/recommend the five brands. Using the collected data from the four countries (France = 345, Germany = 338, Japan =300, and UK = 355), our consumer segmentation approach identified two types of consumer segmentation solutions: one grouping consumers sharing similar personal beauty values and another grouping consumers prioritizing similar brand attributes. The combinations of these two segmentation solutions enabled us to investigate connections between personal beauty values, evaluative judgement of cosmetic brands, strength of association with five specific cosmetic brands and willingness to purchase/recommend the five selected brands. Our analysis presented that German and UK females tended to prioritize socially conscious personal beauty values whereas French and Japanese were inclined to appreciate actual self. These tendencies were connected to their priority in brand attributes. Those appreciating actual-self inclined to prioritize functional attributes of cosmetic products whereas those internalizing social norms prioritized both functional and emotional (namely reputation and recognition) benefits. These trends were also connected with their preference (willingness to purchase) of specific brands. Those internalizing social norms and prioritizing both functional and emotional benefits of cosmetic products tended to have higher intentions to purchase high-end brands such as Dior and Lancôme, those appreciating actual-self and prioritizing only functional benefits tended to have higher purchase intention to low-end brands such as Nivea and cosmetic brands such as La Roche Posay purchased via dermatologists. This way, the study illustrated how analytical workflow integrating the consumer segmentation analysis employing the variational Bayesian stochastic modeling reveals unique connections profiles between personal beauty values, evaluative judgements of brand attributes, strengths of brand associations and their purchase intentions. Due to the page limitation, we only presented some noteworthy observations. However, the thorough analyses of our study could be useful for marketers to identify unique segments that characterize sub-populations within/across specific geographic markets. Thus, we expect that the consumer segmentation technique combining theories such as personal beauty values and expectancy-value model could be a useful tool for marketers to optimize customer-based brand equity targeting specific segments across cultural boundaries.

ABSTRACT. Existing studies show that export market orientation has a positive impact on export channel outcomes, such as importer relationship performance and foreign distributor satisfaction. While these studies present valuable findings on export market orientation and export channel outcomes, they suffer from two shortcomings. First, when examining the relationship between export market orientation and export channel outcomes, prior studies emphasize the benefits of export manufacturers’ abundant information provision to their international channel partners. However, export market orientation has not only an informational aspect, consisting of intelligence generation and dissemination, but also a responsiveness aspect. Second, prior studies do not take into account the moderating effect of export channel relationships. The effect of export market orientation on export channel outcomes should be enhanced in good channel relationships where opportunism does not occur. What creates such good channel relationships is the manufacturer’s channel governance such as relationship formalization and centralization. Accordingly, we investigate the relationship between two types of export market orientation (i.e., information and responsiveness activities) and export channel outcomes, and further examine the moderating role of export channel governance in this relationship. Specifically, we focus on relationship formalization and relationship centralization as export channel governance. By identifying the facilitating factors of the two types of export market orientation benefits, this study contributes to a better understanding of export market orientation and provides useful insights for business managers.

ABSTRACT. Consumer emotions of affinity and animosity towards foreign countries affect their buying choices. However, the coexistence of affinity and animosity raises questions about how their interaction affects purchases and the activities involved in purchasing (Asseraf and Shoham, 2016; Taketani and Terasaki, 2022). In addition, little research exists on how these emotions affect individuals living abroad (e.g., Josiassen, 2011). Their emotions and intention to engage with a foreign product or brand can impact their endorsement of the product in their home country, which is crucial for companies in global marketing. This study aims to investigate how consumer affinity impacts online engagement and the marketing factors influencing it. Specifically, it will examine the perceived quality (PQ), perceived loyalty programs (LPs), and commitment to a brand community (CBC). Furthermore, the study examines how animosity interacts with affinity to affect engagement within these factors. This study identified 26 Japanese fashion brands based on a pre-survey of preferred brands. A survey was conducted to understand the brand-related behaviors of 378 foreign consumers residing in Japan. The data was analyzed using the PROCESS macro in SPSS. The results found that affinity has both direct and indirect effects on engagement. The interaction between affinity and animosity was also observed to have a significant impact on engagement, CBC, and LPs. Additionally, while animosity does not have a direct effect on engagement, it interacts with CBC and LPs to enhance engagement. This study makes a valuable contribution to the existing literature by shedding light on the relationship between affinity, animosity, and engagement, along with their impact on various marketing factors. The findings suggest that affinity and animosity play a crucial role in shaping consumers' perceived value and engagement with foreign fashion brands. These insights have significant implications for marketers seeking to enhance foreign customer engagement.

ABSTRACT. International marketers often employ country of origin as a means to enhance consumers’ acceptance and evaluations of products. Country-specific stereotypes are based on consumers’ perceptions of country’s economic development, technological achievements, history, labor skills, etc. Although such stereotypes do not affect the nature of a product, they are used as quality cues for information processing and consumer decision heuristics. Similar to country-specific stereotypes, consumers in the US hold some geographical stereotypes about North and South based on traditional disparate economic development between the two regions. Following conceptual framework, we test the effect of cardinal direction on consumers’ production competence and product evaluations of foreign products.

ABSTRACT. In the dynamic landscape of the fashion industry, Generative Artificial Intelligence (AI) and Non-Fungible Token (NFT) have emerged as pivotal forces, intertwining technological innovation with aesthetic creation. The purpose of this paper is to explore the influence of Hall's cultural dimensions on AI-generated fashion NFT from a consumer perspective. Based on the Hall’s cross-cultural dimensions, this paper investigates the differences in luxury consumers' behavioral intentions towards luxury fashion NFT in high-context and low-context cultures. Utilizing the Transportation-Imagination Model and employing quantitative studies, we delve into the nuanced preferences and apprehensions of consumers towards AI-generated fashion products in the NFT space. Specific examples are drawn from Beijing, New York, and Seoul for comparative analysis. This research not only assist brand managers in developing global brand strategies that are sensitive to local differences, but also propels discussions on the ethical and aesthetic implications of integrating emergent technologies in fashion industry.

ABSTRACT. Escalating trade restrictions such as tariff increases, stricter customs procedures, imposition of taxes and export duties are frequently regarded as signs of deglobalization. Until recently, mostly developed economies were using such restrictions. However, emerging economies started imposing similar barriers to support local producers. Emerging markets experience raise of nationalism which is reflected in increasing preference for and support of domestic brands on the example of Russian fashion brands. In this study we examine how protectionist measures by emerging economies affect branding activities of local fashion producers which are aimed to be insulated by such actions. Precisely, using trademark filings in twenty emerging economies, we examine how emerging country’s protectionism influences evolution of domestic brands.

ABSTRACT. This paper examines the consumers’ awareness and behaviors towards garment waste recycling in Hong Kong, China. Post-consumption garment waste is now a serious global issue that requires urgent action. The fast fashion phenomenon is often cited as the key driver of the surge in garment waste, given that the ready availability of low-quality, affordable clothing has fostered a pervasive “throwaway culture,” where items are discarded long before their usable life ends (Hvass, 2014). This practice has resulted in a significant increase in garment waste, whereby 87% of global ready-to-wear garments either end up incinerated or in landfills. Consumer decisions on garment disposal can have a positive impact on the environment and resolve the landfill waste problem by extending garment lifespan through reusing and recycling. However, increasing the recycling rate would require a marked shift in consumer attitudes toward garment purchasing, reuse, and recycling. Extant studies have primarily focused on the modes of clothing disposal, thus overlooking the reasons that drive consumers to opt for specific disposal options for their garments. Through a mixed-methods approach including surveys and material composition and content analysis of garment waste collected in a recycling campaign in Hong Kong, this study aims to investigate consumers’ recycling awareness, knowledge of recycling options, and recycling practices related to their unwanted clothes. The findings of this study contribute to bridging the attitude−behavior gap observed among consumers, leading to improved recycling rates and thus mitigating the landfill waste problem.

ABSTRACT. Luxury products are celebrated for their exceptional quality, high prices, rare materials, and superior craftsmanship. However, natural materials like leather, germs or woods, commonly used in luxury goods, may exhibit visual imperfections intrinsic to their authenticity and naturalness. Accepting such imperfections may challenge expectations of high-end consumers accustomed to flawlessness. The study aims to explore how visual imperfections in luxury products affect consumer perceptions and whether informing consumers about sustainable material usage policies can change their perceptions of these imperfections. The study contributes to the literature on luxury-sustainability compatibility, product aesthetics and sustainability, and suggests that educating consumers can alter product consumers’ perceptions of visual imperfections.

ABSTRACT. There is growing information about sustainability issues. However, brands have to overcome a message credibility problem as consumers usually cannot verify brands’ sustainability initiatives. Scholars have identified many possible antecedents that impact consumers’ perception of message credibility in the context of sustainability communication. This study assumes that message credibility can be impacted by the amount of information provided by the brand. In particular, this paper discloses the positive effects of providing a high amount of information on message credibility, demonstrating the role of message style, as a boundary condition. This study contributes to the literature on the factors that affect the credibility of social sustainability communication. It also offers practical insights into the development of social media communication strategies in the context of sustainability communication.

ABSTRACT. In international debates on fashion and marketing, traditional management approaches to organization are seeing a shift to more alternative forms of trade. Socially committed enterprises are challenging conventional models structured towards profit maximization, competition, and wealth concentration by sharing profits and power bottom up.

This research takes you to India to understand the increasing role of voluntary certifications (Fairtrade and GOTS) for management in bringing vision led reforms in internal governance structures of organizations in cotton garment production. Voluntary certifications are private standards that bring together multiple stakeholder interests in meeting social, economic, and environmental agenda. Through third party evaluation, voluntary certifications verify that organizations comply with fair standards. Not just products, but processes of production and management are streamlined to be just and equitable in employee growth, profit sharing and in providing fair working conditions.

ABSTRACT. Drawn upon the combined insights of Self-Congruity Theory, Self-Completion Theory, and the Theory of Reasoned Action, this study proposes that expressing one's self-identity through sustainable fashion can provide identity-behavior congruity (alignment with personal values) and social congruity (gaining social approval), enhancing subjective norms, which reinforces the sustainable behavioral intent. We investigate the relationship between beliefs, attitudes, and subjective norms in shaping their intention to purchase sustainable fashion products. While doing so, the study highlights the psychological pathways leading consumers to embrace sustainable fashion consumption driven by environmental concerns and self-identity. In addition, a moderating role of affordability and sustainable brand awareness amplifying the likelihood of consumers choosing sustainable fashion products was explored. An online survey was used to collect the data through Qualtrics. A total of 316 usable survey responses were recorded and 52% were female. After satisfying the measurement scales’ reliability and validity assumptions, the data were analyzed using partial least squares structural equation modeling (PLS-SEM). The results confirmed all the hypothesized relationships except the moderating effects. Self-identity was found to positively influence self-expressive benefit (β = .472, p < .001), and self-expressive benefit influences consumer attitude toward sustainable consumption (β = .356, p < .001) as well as subjective norm (β = .748, p < .001), leading to purchase intention (β = .384, p < .001). Awareness of environmental impact positively affected environmental concern (β = .543, p < .001) and environmental concern positively influenced environmental concerns (β = .544, p < .001), positively affecting consumer attitude toward sustainable consumption (β = .485, p < .001). Consumer attitude toward sustainable consumption positively influenced the purchase intention of sustainable fashion products (β = .309, p < .001). The moderating role of sustainable brand awareness (β = -.046) and affordability (β = .007) appeared to be insignificant. Recognizing gender differences in sustainable consumption are influenced by a variety of factors, including cultural, social, and individual contexts and are not fixed and variations exist, we tested a potential gender difference in the process leading to sustainable fashion consumption as an ad-hoc analysis. The connection strengths (coefficients) appeared to vary between groups across hypothesized relationships. However, the p-values indicated no significant gender differences. This implies that men and women are not significantly different in the socio-psychological paths leading to sustainable fashion consumption. By investigating motivations behind the behavioral intent of sustainable fashion consumption, this study provides a comprehensive understanding of the psychological process behind the human pursuit of self-identification and validation through fashion choices, ultimately contributing to promoting sustainable practices in the industry. The study contributes to the field by shedding light on understanding socio-psychological pathways to understand sustainable consumption and purchase intentions of sustainable fashion products. The findings provide valuable insights for businesses seeking to effectively communicate their sustainable efforts and enhance their brand image, positioning, and potential sales.

ABSTRACT. Despite much evidence showing conscientious effort, many fashion brands have not been displaying their good practices clearly to the consumers. This may leave a gap between brands’ good practices and more mindful consumers behaviour. Conscientiousness in fashion is critical, but communicating the messages effectively is of equal importance. The paper aims to design fashion retail digital elements on extended reality (XR) platforms that will assist in the process of shaping conscious consumption.

ABSTRACT. In recent years, research on brand authenticity has increased. Our research focuses on the effect of brand authenticity on the intention to travel to the country or location of a brand’s origin. Using consumer inference theory, we identify the factors that mediate the effect of brand authenticity on travel intention. A survey of apparel brands is used to test the hypotheses. The results indicate that the effect of brand authenticity on travel intention is mediated by a company’s commitment to the brand’s roots and brand love. In particular, the mediating effect of a company’s commitment to the brand’s roots, i.e., consumers’ perception that a company firmly believes in its brand and preserves its tradition, is revealed. New theoretical and practical implications for brand authenticity research are discussed.

ABSTRACT. The integration of Live streaming and E-commerce, also known as Live commerce, has been widely used in Asia. This study focuses on the customer engagement in live commerce, a potential driver for long-term development, and seeks to understand its formative process. Grounded in relationship quality theory and affordance theory, we construct a structural model to investigate the impact of consumers' perceived affordances and relationship quality on customer engagement. A survey targeting Chinese live commerce users was conducted to validate the model. The findings indicate theoretical and practical implications for enhancing customer engagement in the dynamic and highly interactive realm of live commerce.

ABSTRACT. The Xinjiang Cotton Incident, which transpired in 2021, demonstrates how CSI could result in consumer boycotts in China. This incident prompted international fast fashion brands associated with the Better Cotton Initiative to condemn unethical labor practices in Xinjiang factories and adhere to global standards of ethical behavior. However, many Chinese customers loyal to these brands perceived their actions as instances of misleading information-led corporate social irresponsibility (CSI). They believed this damaged their country’s reputation and responded to the boycott campaign. This massive retaliation against fast fashion companies has had a detrimental impact on brand reputation and sales, underscoring the importance of remaining vigilant. Therefore, retailers and managers must recognize that technological advancements are double-edged swords. They must prevent and protect their businesses by understanding the logistics behind consumer-perceived CSI and constructing effective responses to potential boycott campaigns. To clarify the critical issues identified, we surveyed over 700 Chinese consumers and analyzed our three hypotheses using PROCESS macro. Our results show a positive indirect effect of misleading information-led CSI on consumer boycott behavior via corporate brand betrayal (H2) and a positive moderated mediation effect of saving face on the indirect effect described in H2 (H3). However, we found two unanticipated results. First, misleading information-led CSI does not directly influence consumers’ boycott behavior, thus contradicting H1. Second, the personality trait of saving face directly reduces the likelihood of boycotting. Finally, global firms can benefit from our findings by gaining a deeper understanding of how consumers perceive immoral behavior: (1) Our research uncovered various levels of corporate unethical crises (CSI), and customers perceive each level differently. (2) It emphasizes the importance of considering consumer emotions during CSI-related crises. (3) Retailers and managers should make informed judgments regarding consumer characteristics when implementing branding or recovery strategies.

ABSTRACT. This study introduces the concept of external value for online games from the perspective of network externalities and diversification strategies. Additionally, it proposes three essential means by which current gaming companies create external value to enhance user satisfaction and discusses the connection between user satisfaction perception and sustainable usage intentions. Specifically, the study establishes multiple dimensions of perceived value, with user satisfaction as the mediating variable, verifying the impact of perceived value related to the external value of gaming products through network externalities and diversification on sustainable usage intentions. Furthermore, from the user’s perspective of perceived value, this study verifies the influence of satisfaction with the external value of online games on sustainable usage intentions.

Data collected from 223 online game users were analyzed using a structural equation model. The research findings are as follows. (1) User satisfaction with the external value of online games positively influences sustainable usage intention. (2) Hedonic, quality, and social values positively impact satisfaction with the external value of online games. In particular, the impact of the quality value is the most significant. (3) Utilitarian value does not affect the external value of online games, but directly influences sustainable usage intentions.

ABSTRACT. This paper explores the impact of Non-Fungible Tokens (NFTs) on travelers' decision-making processes regarding their destination choices. The central hypothesis posits that exposure to NFTs associated with specific destinations will heighten the intention to visit those locations, driven by individuals' expressed attitudes towards experiencing the artist's work. However, the study also suggests that this positive effect on visit intention will be mitigated when the price of NFTs is exceptionally high compared to lower prices. This anticipated reduction is attributed to the lower accessibility and availability of the target destination, aligning with the hypothesis derived from the impression formation theory. In summary, the paper presents three main hypotheses: (H1) Exposure to NFTs will increase visit intention to the destination; (H2) The positive effect of H1 will be mediated by an augmented intention to see the artist at the physical destination; and (H3) The positive effect of H1 will be diminished by a very high price (vs. normal price) of NFT.

ABSTRACT. With the rapid evolution of digital technologies, a new kind of influencer is starting to appear on social media platforms - one that is no longer confined to the real world, but who exists purely in the digital world with influence in the real world. Virtual influencers (VIs) as they have come to be known, are computer-generated characters with human traits, characteristics, personalities and identities, with a following on social media. While globally, virtual influencers are gaining momentum amongst brands on digital marketing platforms, this phenomenon is still in its infancy within developing markets, such as South Africa. Yet, we are seeing a shift within the influencer market in South Africa. This shift is reflective of brands turning towards collaborating with micro influencers (10k to 100k followers) and nano influencers (1 to 1k followers), rather than mega influencers or celebrity personas (more than 1 million followers). Hence, the reasoning for focusing on nano influencers within developing countries.

The growing attraction toward collaborating with VIs could stem from its cost efficiency and the complete control that brands can have over the content and campaign, as compared to their more traditional human influencers (HIs). However, VIs can also be perceived as lacking the necessary transparency and authenticity brands desire, because their lives are essentially fictional with no backstory. While consumers could relate to these influencers to an extent, as a result of the psychological phenomena of anthropomorphism (i.e. due to their human-like appearances and personalities), these influencers do stand the risk of not being trusted as much as their human counterparts. This could be justified as a result of them not being able to fully try or test the products/brands they endorse. So, as we find ourselves in a society in which authenticity has become the currency of trust and loyalty, would it then not be counterintuitive and counterproductive for brands to collaborate with such deepfake personas, as “realism” and authenticity become highly valued? And how VIs measure up in a market, where HIs, especially micro and nano influencers, are still very much prevalent.

The sample will comprise a South African nano HI and a VI who both endorse a specific brand within the fashion/beauty industry in South Africa. Based on the premise of Trust Transfer Theory, this study aims to ascertain if there are perceived differences between the HI and VI in terms of whether perceived trust, consumer self-identification and authenticity of each respective influencer is transferred onto the brand endorsed. An online self-administered questionnaire will be distributed through Qualtrics, to a panel of respondents who are followers of both the identified nano HI and the VI on Instagram, and all respondents will be exposed to both stimuli. The data from this consumer panel will then be used for analyses and provide insight into the proposed research question.

ABSTRACT. With the advent of communication technology, the popularity of social media influencers expanded to virtual influencers, a computer-generated persona in social media. Despite increasing popularity and interest in virtual influencers, virtual influencer-related research is embryotic as the topic's novelty. Therefore, the present study explores how VI characteristics, such as attractiveness, self-disclosure, and interactivity, influence consumer attitudes toward the message shared. The survey was developed from the extensive literature review to examine the suggested relationships and the consumer data was collected in the USA (n = 174). The study results present the critical role of self-disclosure and interactivity on consumers’ perception of AI’s attractiveness and PSI development, thereby leading the consumers to show a positive attitude toward the message presented.

ABSTRACT. Individuals are exposed to viral fashion trends daily on social media channels. This study focuses specifically on Generation Z (Gen Z) and their purchase intentions regarding viral fashion trends on the popular social media channel TikTok. This study aims to better understand how the virality of a video on TikTok impacts the purchase intention of Gen Z through examining parasocial interaction (PSI), perceived expertise, and trustworthiness of the content creator. A viral and nonviral video posted by two different influencers of the same gender/ethnicity was delivered to participants, followed by a survey regarding the participants' purchase intention guided by the influencer's trustworthiness, perceived expertise, and PSI with the audience. Approximately 421 Gen Z students at a large Midwest university were given a 26-question survey through the online platform, Qualtrics. The results identify the current questions surrounding Gen Z's purchase intentions based on trustworthiness, perceived expertise, and PSI, with viral fashion trends viewed on TikTok leading to purchase intention. The results suggest strategies to create viral marketing content that is critical for marketers to reach large audiences and build brand awareness.

ABSTRACT. This study examined how Instagram Shop’s checkout feature influences the of the customers perception toward the brands’ Instagram shop in terms of Perceived Usefulness (PU), Perceived Ease Of Use (PEOU) and Perceived Risk (PR) of the service. Further, we test how the perceptions toward the brand’s Instagram Shop transfers to trust and loyalty toward the brand as well as trust and loyalty toward the Instagram platform. The study used a one-factor (In-app checkout vs. click- out to website) between-subject experimental design. The result revealed that the in-app check out presented a stronger PEOU and PU of the Instagram Shops, compared to the click-out to website. Further, the PEOU and PU toward the Instagram shop was extended to the brand, fostering brand trust and brand loyalty. PEOU, PU and PR toward the Instagram shop led to trust and loyalty towards the Instagram platform, confirming the previous research that tested the Technology Acceptance Model.

ABSTRACT. The study examined the effect of brand awareness and familiarity of the spokesperson (i.e., celebrity vs. non celebrity) on positive emotion, negative emotion, trust and brand identification in the context of brand advertisement through Instagram Stories. This study employed a 2 (familiar spokesperson vs. unfamiliar spokesperson) X 2(high brand awareness vs. low brand awareness) between subject design to test the hypotheses. The findings indicate that most users prefer to see a brand and spokespersons with similar or equal status (i.e., high familiarity with high brand awareness and low familiarity with low brand awareness) to respond positively to an advertisement.

ABSTRACT. In an era where influencer marketing on platforms like Instagram shapes consumer behavior (Belanche et al., 2021), this study extends the discourse by examining the interplay between perceived personal gains, credibility dimensions, and brand perception in the fashion industry. Building upon findings that brand and influencer credibility affect consumer perceptions of promotional posts (Lee & Kim, 2020), and that influencer-product congruence and perceptions of paid communication impact credibility (Belanche et al., 2021), this research employs a 2 by 3 between-groups experimental design across luxury and fast fashion segments. Analyses of 619 participants reveal that perceived personal gains negatively impact both the perceived expertise and overall trustworthiness of posters, as well as attitudes towards the brand. A notable finding is the distinct perception of influencers versus regular users in the context of luxury products. Influencers, compared to regular users, are perceived as motivated by personal gain, particularly in luxury segments, suggesting a critical reconsideration for luxury brands in encouraging user-generated content over recognizable influencers. In contrast, no significant difference was observed in the fast fashion category. The study also uncovers a significant correlation between perceived authenticity and brand affinity (r = .585, p = .000), underscoring the pivotal role of authenticity in consumer-brand relationships on social media. These findings enhance the influencer marketing literature by shedding light on the nuanced roles of credibility and authenticity across different fashion market segments and provide new insights for effective digital marketing strategies. These results emphasize the significance of authenticity and non-transactional relationships in shaping brand attitudes in the digital age, although the impact varies by product category and perceived personal gain. This research offers novel perspectives on leveraging credibility and authenticity in fashion marketing strategies, highlighting the delicate balance between influencer partnerships and brand perception. As the fashion industry increasingly pivots towards digital platforms, understanding these dynamics becomes crucial for effective brand positioning and consumer engagement. References Belanche, D., Flavián, C., & Ibáñez-Sánchez, S. (2021). Building influencers' credibility on Instagram: Effects on followers' attitudes and behavioral responses toward the influencer. Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, 63, 102644. Lee, S., & Kim, D. (2020). Influencer marketing on Instagram: How sponsorship disclosure, influencer credibility, and brand credibility impact the effectiveness of Instagram promotional posts. Journal of Global Fashion Marketing, Volume 11 (3), 232-249.

ABSTRACT. This research aims to provide explanations for why an app like the one proposed in the research would be useful to provide solutions to problems many people are facing today when it comes to sustainable fashion. By looking into consumer behavior related to sustainability, user interface design, usability, and shopping intentions in general, it is clear that there is a market for an app that assists consumers in their shopping and styling habits. In addition with app interface design and planning an additional quantitative survey was conducted to better understand the usability and ease of use of this type of application leading to attitudes and purchase intentions. An online survey of 47 questions was given to students at a large Midwestern University. It was determined that a study of this nature provides the background towards development of more useful and easy tools in order to better understand how useful engagement of this nature is proven effective among gen z consumers.

ABSTRACT. Previous studies indicate that e-commerce has been taking over retail since the onset of the Covid-19 pandemic, and it is expected to continue to do so in years to come (Worldwide Ecommerce Sales, n.d.). In 2020, 18% of global retail sales were transacted online, and this figure is expected to continue to rise to 22% by 2024 (Ecommerce Sales & Size Forecast, n.d.). Despite this growth in e-commerce, off-price retail is growing as well, as its market growth over the next five years is expected to be five times that of its full-price counterparts (Balchandani et al., 2022). One persistent gap in the literature of off-price retail is studying “sport shoppers” in the e-commerce marketplace, specifically on the websites of off-price retailers, despite the fact that online shopping has become an important part of consumers’ lives in the past decade. Quantitative data was collected through a survey questionnaire using a modified version of the SSE scale formulated by Mortimer et al. (2018). The sample group of this study consists of 146 millennial women who have made a purchase on an off-price retailer’s website in the past six months. The research question and its associated hypotheses elucidate a stronger understanding of the relationship between the variables if the proposed model supports the findings, as well as for further research regarding “sport shopping” in the online off-price retail environment.

ABSTRACT. Recent statistics show that mobile apps have reached 257 billion downloads in 2023, while expected to generate over $600 billion in revenue in 2025 (Statista, 2024a). Mobile apps [branded apps] reflect downloadable software with brand identity (e.g., via the logo or app name) reflected in a prominent way through the user experience (Bellman et al., 2011). According to Stocchi et al. (2022) “apps are considered catalysts of ‘new’ customer experiences due to being a unique source of value” (p. 197). In this sense, mobile apps have the potential to offer brands (including fashion brands - Watson et al., 2018), multiple opportunities to enhance the experiential value they offer to consumers (Pantano & Priporas, 2016). In view of their ability to “support value generating activities” (Stocchi et al., 2022, p. 195), fashion brand retailers leverage mobile apps as part of their omnichannel strategy (McLean et al., 2018), with recent anecdotal evidence ranking fashion retailers such as Shein, Nike, Asos and H&M among the top, most downloaded apps in 2023 (Statista, 2024b). Mobile apps entail their own characteristics or functions (e.g., aesthetics, interfaces, AR, enjoyment/gamification etc.); which enhance consumer-brand interactions and thereafter the overall experience consumers have with brands, leading to enhanced purchasing intentions, satisfaction as well as continued app use (Hamouda, 2021). Nevertheless, research which explores the ‘experiential factor potential’ of apps remains scarce (McLean et al., 2018; Siregar & Kent, 2019; Molinillo et al., 2020) representing a priority future theme in the context of mobile apps research; which exhibits an overreliance on theories such as the Technology Acceptance Model primarily at the initial stage of the customer journey (see Stocchi et al., 2022). To fill this significant gap in the literature, the present study draws on Technology Affordance Theory (RO) to uncover affordances individuals perceive in fashion mobile apps that trigger experiential value. We adopt a qualitative research design involving data from seventeen in-depth interviews with fashion apps users. Our findings have significant theoretical implications as we adopt a different theoretical lens to explore fashion mobile apps, their affordances and experiential ‘value in use’ at a different stage of the apps journey (e.g., post adoption).

ABSTRACT. Existing research on second-hand luxury focused on its meanings and adoption, neglecting the consumer journey in emerging platforms. Acknowledging the significance of investigating consumer experience in indirect channels for understanding brand-related consumer behavior, this study aims to fill this gap. Findings reveal a complex journey that significantly shapes future purchasing decisions.

ABSTRACT. This research aim is to be a catalyst for understanding the intricate relationship between sustainability and luxury fashion advertising, with a distinctive focus on people from a Triple Bottom Line (TBL) perspective. Specifically, our attention is directed towards the gender-oriented communication strategies employed by luxury fashion brands. From advertising campaigns to comprehensive Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion initiatives (DE&I), we scrutinize the extent to which these strategies are grounded in genuine advocacy for inclusivity and gender issues or are primarily driven by communication tactics. We explore this critical theme via a systematic literature review on fashion and gender issues, followed by a qualitative cross-analysis of four different luxury brands – namely Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Hermes, and Gucci – unravelling the nuances of gender-oriented strategies they adopt, and questioning the authenticity behind these approaches and their impact on fostering genuine social change. This paper will present the state of the art of our ongoing research, sharing the preliminary results of our investigation, charting a visionary course for advancing sustainability in fashion advertising.

ABSTRACT. Due to the difference in consumption motivation, luxury and sustainability has been seen as oxymoronic. Luxury seeks to create a vertical stratification, and its consumers are mainly status-motivated; whereas sustainability seeks to create a horizontal equal relationship with the public good. However, the theory of competitive altruism suggests that pro-social behavior such as sustainable consumption can be motivated by status as well. Previous research has shown that matching the message with consumer status motivation will increase consumers’ attitudes to the brand. Therefore, we hypothesize that when communicating their sustainable efforts, the advertisement should use ‘I’ to convey the superiority of self, rather than ‘we,’ which suggests equality.

ABSTRACT. Environmental, Social, and Governance (ESG) has emerged as a pivotal component of sustainability, gaining prominence driven by customer demand, investor expectations, and regulatory policies. The fashion industry is also compelled to comprehend and adeptly implement ESG practices. Considering the signaling roles of ESG and advertising, this study investigates how Environmental, Social, and Governance performances influence the effect of advertising on firm performance within the context of fashion industry. This study employs linear models with financial data to answer the research questions. The findings show that advertising expenditure increases performance of companies, and this positive effect of advertising on firm performance is influenced by the ESG factors.

ABSTRACT. Green products, sustainable products, or zero-waste products, include products that use less resources or generate fewer pollutants in the manufacturing process, products that generate less waste after use, and reusable products that can reduce disposable use. Examples of reusable products comprise eco-bags, tumblers, make-up pads, handkerchiefs, and iron straws. Eco-bags and tumblers are frequently recognizable to others as reusable products based on their usage settings. This study categorizes these categories of items as exposed reusable products. Unlike ordinary reusable products, customers have the opportunity to carefully evaluate the visual feature of the product as it is frequently displayed to others. Thus, it is frequently observed that the exposed reusable product is integrated with masstige brand. While the combination between the exposed reusable product and masstige brand is commonly employed by businesses, it is challenging to find research on this subject. The objective of this study is to investigate whether the combination effect of masstige brand and the exposed reusable product has a positive influences purchase intention. Furthermore, the objective is to examine the combination effect of the exposed reusable product and masstige brand according to aesthetic package design (simple vs. complex) on purchase intention. The results of the current research provide the framework of the combination effect of a masstige brand and aesthetic packaging design.

ABSTRACT. Environmental protection has been an important concern for individuals, governments, and companies. Due to growing consumer concerns about climate change (Tang and Tang, 2012), companies are now entering an era of environmental sustainability (Davies, Lee, and Ahonkhai, 2012). Luxury companies also cannot avoid these green trends. According to the new perception of luxury, it represents the highest positive contribution to people and the planet that no other product or service could provide (Ki and Kim, 2016). Hence, environmental sustainability may ultimately ensure a luxury brand’s long-term success (De Angelis et al., 2017; Arrigo, 2018). However, a luxury brand’s concept is often perceived as distinct or even opposite to environmental practices, and consumers naturally show skepticism towards green advertising (Alhouti et al. 2016). For example, Dekhili et al. (2018) suggest that green information can negatively affect consumers’ brand attitude and purchase intention for luxury brands. This study aims to identify the type of green advertising that maximizes the positive effect on consumers’ luxury fashion brand attitudes and luxury perceptions. The study suggests that luxury fashion brands’ cause-focused green advertising has a more positive impact on consumers’ brand attitude and perceived product luxury than product-focused green advertising. However, the effect of cause-focused green advertising is attenuated among consumers with high environmental persuasion knowledge. Warm emotion and perceived skepticism serially mediate the effect of luxury fashion brands’ green advertising on consumers’ brand attitude, and consumers with low environmental persuasion knowledge rely more on warm emotion to make brand judgments. We offer insights about environmental messages that can align with the luxury fashion brand concept and possibly affect consumers' attitudinal and behavioral reactions.

ABSTRACT. As the technology for virtual worlds develops at an incredible rate, the concept of digital fashion or digital twin fashion was born, based on the technology of digital twins that recreate the same appearance as the real thing. This study begins with the question of why some people buy digital twin luxury goods more than others. Individuals move between their virtual and real-world selves in a variety of activities, some with little or no distinction between the two, while others have clear boundaries between the two. Based on role integration research, this study defines self-integration as the absence of significant distinctions between the two selves, and self-segmentation as the presence of clear boundaries between the two selves.

Research on self and goals shows that each self has a specific goal and demand to pursue, and a person with an integrated self has a lower competition between each goal than a person with a segmented self. These people will be less inclined to perceive the value of tangibility higher because the goals of the virtual and real world are relatively less conflicting. Therefore, people with an integrated self will have a higher preference for virtual products than those with a segmented self.

By extending the role integration context to self-integration, the present study contributes to explaining who prefers digital twin luxury products and why people consume virtually.

ABSTRACT. The luxury industry is projected to reach a record high in 2023 despite of an induction of market size in 2020 due to the global COVID-19 crisis (Bain & Company, 2023). The evolving luxury market, coupled with the advancement in digital communication, has significantly changed consumer perceptions and consumption behaviors of luxury brands (Ko et al., 2016). Over the past decade, the widespread adoption of social media has positioned it as the primary communication channel for marketing activities (Rialti et al., 2017). The immediacy and interactivity of social media present both challenges and opportunities for the luxury industry. Social media has evolved into an essential resource for consumer decision-making and a vital tool for relationship marketing (Pentina et al., 2018). Relationship marketing emphasizes the importance of customer engagement (CE), seen as crucial for marketers aiming to foster long-term customer relationships and build brand loyalty (Lim et al., 2022). Individual differences in CE are influenced by a network of antecedents such as susceptibility to normative influence (Bearden et al., 1989) and brand self-concept relationship (Sprott et al., 2009). Understanding antecedents of CE in luxury context is important, because luxury brands are often used as symbols to communicate social status, wealth, or affiliation with a particular group or lifestyle, congruent with Belk's (1988) extended-self theory. Despite the increasing research attention on CE, very limited studies are conducted with luxury brands (Lim et al., 2022). Liu et al., (2021) analyzed social media marketing efforts of luxury brand and its influence on customer engagement using big data retrieved from Twitter. Oliveira and Fernandes (2020) examined drivers and outcomes of CE with luxury brands using a multinational sample on Instagram. Further studies of customer engagement with luxury brands are needed to understand consumer motivations in different contexts. With the growing proportion of luxury consumption and fast development of digital marketing, China becomes an interesting geographic context for CE research. The current study aims to address the research gap with a conceptual model to examine antecedents and outcomes of CE with survey data from Chinese social media platforms like Weibo, WeChat, Xiaohongshu, etc. The present study contributes to the existing literature in two ways. First, customer engagement behaviors on social media are analyzed with customer socio-psychological drivers within the luxury context. Second, the construct is examined in a distinct and important luxury market, China. Therefore, the study provides theoretical and managerial implications to understand and improve customer-brand relationships for luxury industry in the digital era.

ABSTRACT. Metaverse has gained significant attention in recent years for providing luxury fashion brands access to markets and consumers at a monumental scale, that is driven by persistent immersive and interconnected experiences. Transformations in the digital space have provided new avenues of online selling, opening multiple distribution channels for sale of high-end luxury products. In this context, Instagram has become a popular social media platform for luxury fashion brands. While these developments are noteworthy and seemingly good for business, they are also critical for the notable shifts in luxury brand advertising in the digital space and consumer engagement with it. It is a well-established fact that for luxury brands, engaging consumers in the digital space is critical to stay relevant (Bain & Company, 2019b; Kim & Ko, 2012a; Ko et al., 2016; Oliveira and Fernandes, 2022). However, this engagement in the digital space is also being seen as posing unique challenges to fashion brands. Luxury products were earlier recognized in the niche luxury segment for their perceived premium quality, style and/or limited accessibility. However, in current times, this claim to exclusivity and rarity, critical to the very concept of luxury, is evolving as luxury is being increasingly made accessible through the reach and potential of online selling platforms. Additionally, much remains to be understood about the motivating factors behind the purchase intentions of consumers in the luxury brands landscape. Evidence points to research which further highlights that purchase decisions differ by gender (Putrevu, 2001; Pelet et al. 2017). But while women have been a subject of scrutiny for many studies. (Kempf et al, 2006; Kim et al. 2007; Noseworthy et al., 2011; Pelet et al. 2017), men have not received much attention, especially in India where no such study on men’s use of Instagram for luxury shopping purchasing exists.

ABSTRACT. The digital era has reshaped consumer experiences, notably in the convergence of technology and luxury within gaming environments. Gucci's landmark sale of a digital handbag on Roblox in 2021 marked a turning point, inspiring Burberry and Dior to integrate their fashion lines into Minecraft and Gran Turismo. With the luxury market projected to be 50% driven by younger demographics by 2025 (Fashion Network, 2019), brands are compelled to innovate and create captivating digital experiences. Nintendo's "Animal Crossing: New Horizons" has become a key platform for luxury fashion. In this game, players create islands, customizing avatars and even emulating sophisticated streetwear styles from brands like Marc Jacobs and Valentino. This blend of luxury fashion and gaming is facilitated through the game's digital versions. Fashion in digital games reflects players' desire to express identity and aesthetic sensibilities through their characters (Kim et al., 2012). The attractiveness, design, and vividness of characters influence a game's realism, and the online gaming industry has witnessed a surge in the popularity of high-fashion products, embracing specific luxury brands. This trend creates a novel avenue for luxury brands to offer unique experiences, especially among Millennials and Generation Z (Husain et al., 2022; Quach et al., 2022). Modern gamers, particularly Generation Z and Alpha, are technologically oriented (Priporas et al., 2017; Bennet et al., 2008). Technological orientation, defined as the ability to acquire substantial technological knowledge, is crucial for corporate innovation (Gatignon & Xuereb, 1997). As seen in "Animal Crossing: New Horizons," users fulfill aesthetic desires and social needs, contributing to a virtual social bazaar. Social interaction is integral to the game's success (Zhu, 2020). This research investigates how individuals' technology orientation influences their interactions in 'phygital' spaces in luxury consumption. Focusing on how players' technology orientation shapes perceptions of the game's luxury space—encompassing aesthetics, imagination, and social interaction—this study aims to deepen our understanding of technology's impact on luxury consumption in virtual environments. The findings aim to illuminate consumer behavior in digital realms, offering insights for marketers, designers, and policymakers. As the convergence of physical and digital realities continues, exploring trends in "Animal Crossing: New Horizons" holds implications for academic research and practical applications. This exploration is vital for understanding the evolving landscape of consumer engagement and developing strategies that leverage unique opportunities in phygital environments.

ABSTRACT. Flagship stores in luxury fashion brands have evolved, becoming spaces beyond commercial transactions: it is not only a question of selling products (many are currently doing it online) but also provoking an exclusive and special feeling in the client. Design is a critical tool to convey the identity, values, and perceptions of the brand and, at the same time, adapt to social, environmental and architectural trends. Everything, from the design to the materials used, tells a story about the brand and tries to offer a unique experience to the client. The evolution of flagship stores has been discussed in the academic literature, emphasising the need for the brand to adapt to the changing preferences of consumers, the advances in technology, and concerns about sustainability. The evolution, design, and concept of this typology of stores reflect what is happening in the world and how the luxury sector is responding to these changes. Previous research highlights how brands should adjust their architectural strategies to resonate with local preferences while maintaining a cohesive global brand image. Cultural differences between Asia and Europe underlie how flagship stores are designed and presented. On the one hand, in Asia, they often balance luxury and simplicity, while in Europe, they reflect local aesthetics and history. Thus, the role of architects is critical since they contribute to creating iconic and distinguishable spaces that align with the brand image. Although there are several studies on specific designers or buildings, a clear analytical framework that integrates all these elements to provide a holistic vision of the architecture and evolution of flagships in the luxury sector is missing. This study tends to fill the gap, pursuing three objectives: 1) to study the importance, design, and evolution of the flagships and how they reflect the brands’ changes and trends (e.g. sustainability and circularity); 2) to analyse how flagships transmit the values and identity of the brands, and the differences among different countries; and 3) to highlight the importance of architecture and the architects behind these designs, and how their vision and creativity contribute to foster the values and identity of the brands and enrich customer experience. Hermès and Loewe are selected as case studies, analysing their flagships and boutiques in Spain (Madrid and Barcelona) and Japan (Tokyo). This analysis is paramount to understand not only the current state of these commercial spaces, but also to anticipate their future development and its impact on brands and the customer experience.

ABSTRACT. Drawing on Flow Theory, this study explores how spatial crowdedness in the VR apparel store, along with consumers’ self-efficacy and response efficacy, affects consumers’ flow experiences, and thus leads to their satisfaction with the VR apparel store and continuous intention to shop in it. Using a quantitative survey method (N=181), the study results show that spatial crowdedness in the VR apparel store negatively affects consumers’ flow experiences. However, consumers’ response efficacy positively influences their flow experiences, which in turn impacts their satisfaction and continuous intention.

ABSTRACT. Digital fashion refers to the creation and representation of garments in virtual 3D formats using Computer-Aided design (CAD). It serves a dual role: a tool and an end product. As a tool, it enables virtual previews in design and production, and functions as a Virtual Try-On (VTO) in marketing. As an end product, digital fashion extends to digital-only products, including digital skins for games and virtual influencers, superimposed image-based fashion, AR filter-based items, fashion NFTs, and digital twins. Digital fashion end products have recently attracted significant attention in the industry, with luxury brands like Gucci and Louis Vuitton creating digital collections. As such digital fashion end product’s global value could potentially exceed USD $50 billion by 2030 (Deloitte, 2022; Forbes, 2022). However, despite its commercial promise, there is a significant research gap, especially in understanding consumer acceptance of digital fashion as an end product. This study aims to addresses this gap in the literature using the Technology Acceptance Model (TAM) as a theoretical lens through a qualitative approach, employing semi-structured interviews. The methodological choice of using the TAM qualitatively is driven the framework’s robust foundations in examining new technology adoption and the emerging nature of digital fashion end products, making an exploratory inquiry most appropriate. This approach enables a deeper exploration of consumer perceived enjoyment, perceived ease of use and perceived usefulness of digital fashion end products, while identifying other variables influencing their acceptance. This approach offering a thorough, nuanced understanding of the factors influencing digital fashion acceptance beyond what quantitative methods reveal. Theoretically, this study expands the TAM’s applicability in a qualitative context, offering insights into its relevance in the digital fashion field. It enriches the current literature on digital fashion end products, contributing to a more comprehensive understanding of consumer acceptance in this area. Practically, the findings provide strategic managerial recommendations, particularly for brands venturing into this new field, shaping the future business models to align with consumer expectations and preferences. The findings will be presented in the conference.

ABSTRACT. In recent years, companies across diverse sectors have been increasingly leveraging technology and shifting their marketing strategies towards entering virtual worlds to engage Generation Z in their preferred digital environments. This transition reflects a natural progression, as synthetic worlds offer a logical frontier for marketers to connect with their target audience (Castranova, 2005). However, caution is warranted, while these worlds represent an opportunity because of their numbers, “marketers must be beware: synthetic worlds offer the opportunity to be part of a dream - or to kill it” (Castranova, 2005, pp. 20-22).

This caution is particularly relevant for luxury brands, which have traditionally been hesitant to embrace the internet but have gradually incorporated digital tools to convey their exclusive, timeless, and unique aura (Okonkwo, 2010). The study aims to understand what type of affordances can be identified in the virtual worlds analysed; to identify which functions are accomplished by those affordances; to determine how those brands use virtual worlds to semiotically construct an immersive branded environment.

In order to achieve these aims, the study examines three virtual worlds created by Burberry (B Bounce), Gucci (Gucci Arcade games) and Louis Vuitton (Louis The Game). Additionally, to further understand brands’ position towards technology, the authors analyze the narrative that those brands constructed around their engagement with metaverse, NFT, and innovative technologies across different channels. Drawing on existing literature on virtual worlds and luxury, a three-fold analysis was conducted, encompassing an affordance analysis (Park et al., 2008; Dioniso et al., 2013), the functions of affordances within a situated context (Nervino, 2018), and a discourse analysis of brand narratives from websites, social media, press releases, and news articles.

Preliminary findings suggest that luxury brands focus on specific affordances that enhance user engagement, including platform usability, command familiarity, content creation, and the provision of ultimate rewards. By leveraging multimedia and animation capabilities, virtual worlds enable brands to create and communicate uniqueness, distinctiveness, exclusivity, and rarity (e.g., limited editions) through the use of NFTs. Moreover, luxury brands employ virtual worlds to target specific subcultures within communities, educate audiences about brand heritage (e.g., Louis The Game celebrates Louis Vuitton’s 200th birthday) and specific values (e.g., Gucci game on environmental sustainability), and ultimately enhance brand awareness. Analysis of brand narratives reveals that luxury brands actively participate in discussions about technology and innovation (e.g., metaverse, NFTs); however, the materialization of new experiences may require additional time. To initiate their journey, luxury brands often form partnerships, hire new talents, or undertake activities that integrate features of technologies, such as videogames, metaverse, and NFTs.

Ultimately, luxury brands face the challenge of striking a delicate balance between preserving tradition and fostering innovation, establishing a stable brand image while simultaneously surprising customers, and creating a sense of enduring timelessness without taking the risk of being considered obsolete (Corbellini & Saviolo, 2007). In summary, no matter what technology is deployed, the key to remaining relevant for luxury brands lies in "keeping the dream alive" (Corbellini & Saviolo, 2007, p.130).

ABSTRACT. The increasing relevance of digital interactions, including virtual communication, metaverse and gaming, are stimulating the attention of consumers and companies. In particular, Generation Z and Alpha seem very attracted to these contexts and also seems to pay attention to the appearance and clothing of their avatar. The current research on the topic of identity and cultural identity in one's avatar is still limited, especially in the marketing field, but the growing trends in the manifestation of cultural identity that are spreading in the world of fashion suggest an increasing potential. This preliminary study aims at understanding the importance for young users to develop a virtual image of themselves and their identity in the metaverse. To address this objective, we collected semi-structured interviews with N=12 young consumers to investigate the ways and means of self-representation and whether young consumers would be interested in using or buying cultural or even folk clothing in the metaverse. The results provide managerial implications to the main metaverse platforms and also fashion brands.

ABSTRACT. Digital technologies and the popularization of e-commerce, social media and metaverse platforms are transforming the fashion industry. Sales through these platforms were pushed up during the COVID-19 pandemic by their intrinsic characteristic of social distancing. This has created a need to effectively communicate with customers and address their needs, preferences, and expectations. Fashion customers are keen to adopting new technologies and digital platforms as they offer a more personalized and meaningful online shopping experience. To improve customers’ experience, many online businesses have implemented recommendations through an interactive interface (e.g., Dialog System (DS)), as a solution. Recommendations in an online fashion retail platform face the problem of being highly dependent on time-varying customers’ preferences and product availability, often leading to an information overload problem. To address this problem, fashion Recommendation Systems (RSs) have benefited from applications of Artificial Intelligence’s techniques, matching customer’s needs and preferences. The DS allows users to interact with the RS and resolve product queries. However, the complexity of human language poses a significant challenge to the effectiveness and acceptance of DSs, particularly in task-oriented (e.g., Marketing & Sales) and context-limited scenarios (e.g., fashion). For instance, a sophisticated but poorly performing DS (e.g., a chatbot) may be worse than a much simpler solution (e.g., a Graphical User Interface (GUI)). As such, designing an efficient and reliable DS is critical to delivering satisfactory user experiences. To address this challenge, this work aims to evaluate a chatbot that serves as an interface for a RS that assists users in finding clothing. To evaluate the chatbot’s performance, usability, hedonic and pragmatic values, potential users in Brazil and the UK assessed their overall satisfaction with the chatbot’s effectiveness in providing personalized recommendations as compared to a simpler GUI. This evaluation contributes to the broader effort to improve and personalize the online fashion shopping experience, particularly by contrasting and comparing the perceptions of consumers from both Brazil and the UK (two of the top five chatbot user countries worldwide) towards chatbots and recommendation systems.

ABSTRACT. Consumers are exposed daily to messages that try to influence their beliefs, attitudes and behavior. In response to these frequent persuasion attempts consumers have built up persuasion knowledge which allows them to identify such attempts and coping strategies to resist persuasion attempts (Friestad & Wright, 1994).

The goal of advertisers is to maximize the persuasive impact of their message. Narrative ads, which are ads that convey their message in the form of a story, are especially suited to persuade and avoid the elicitation of resistance because they immerse consumers in their story worlds, a state called narrative transportation, which aligns consumers’ attitudes with those portrayed in the story (Green & Brock, 2000). Thus, it is of interest which elements in a story make it more immersive (transporting) which increases persuasion but also which elements can reduce resistance. Literature does not provide much guidance on the effect of story complexity on transportation into the story and the elicitation of resistance. Given that stories derive their persuasive power from occupying cognitive capacity (e.g., Krause & Rucker, 2020), the complexity of a story seems relevant for how much cognitive capacity is occupied and whether complexity aids in transporting viewers and inhibits resistance.

Different characteristics of narrative ads and their effect on persuasion have been investigated but story complexity seems not to have received attention. For example, research in narrative advertising has investigated only distantly related topics such as accessible and inaccessible narratives (Chang, 2013).

We argue that the relationship between story complexity and transportation, and complexity and anger (a form of resistance) is non-linear, i.e., there are optimal levels of story complexity. We propose that more complex stories require higher amounts of cognitive resources to be processed by consumers which reduces the cognitive capacity available for counterarguing and thus reduces anger. Still, story complexity offers these positive effects only until a certain level of complexity is reached because if the story is too complex consumers become disengaged. Our empirical study of narrative video advertisements illustrates the effect of story complexity on transportation and anger, as well as effects on the outcome variable ad attitude in a cross-sectional survey. The results show that story complexity has non-linear relationships with both transportation and anger which in turn affect ad attitude.

ABSTRACT. Loyalty programs are common customer retention tactics in fashion retailers that provide rewards for recurring purchases. According to the theory of reward gradient, the value of the rewards increases as customers get closer to earning rewards, and this leads them to be more motivated toward rewards. Extending from here, this study suggests the possibility of nonlinearity in the reward gradient in loyalty programs. The logic of the prospect theory is applied as it considers nonlinear characteristics of gain and loss values and subjective probability in value evaluations over the progressions. Specifically, as customers make progress toward rewards, the value changes in rewards can be expected to be nonlinear because their accumulated efforts decrease the value of earning rewards while increasing the value of losing rewards, therefore, in turn, affecting the overall subjective value of reward in loyalty programs. Furthermore, this study considered individual traits to understand how customers’ motivation during progression toward the reward can be influenced by them. The results showed that changes in value evaluation can be made over the progression, resulting in greater customer motivation at the beginning and the end of the progress than in the middle. We confirmed that this effect was further moderated by regulatory focus (promotion-focused vs. prevention-focused) as subjects exhibited different attitudes toward approaching rewards. This is among the pioneering studies validating the possibility of nonlinear reward gradient behavior in reward programs by demonstrating with both mathematical simulation and experiment.

ABSTRACT. The increasing customer preference for cross-channel shopping journeys requires retailers and producers to update their channel and customer management strategies. Previous studies have widely addressed showrooming (offline information search and product trial followed by online purchase) and webrooming (online information search leading to offline purchase) and focused on the implications for retailers’ multi- and omni-channel strategies. On the contrary, the producer’s perspective has received much less interest. Cross-channel shopping poses complex challenges for the many producers who simultaneously sell their products through both their e-stores and independent brick-and-mortar retailers. In such a situation, effective coordination and mutually beneficial agreements between producers and retailers become crucial to managing cross-channel shopping behaviors, particularly showrooming. While producers are not inclined to maximize e-store sales at the expense of their retail partners, the online platform holds strategic importance by providing greater control over the brand experience and yielding higher profit margins on sales. Consequently, producers must comprehend customer-perceived shopping experiences within their e-stores and how these experiences influence attitudes and behaviors. This understanding can be leveraged to tailor e-store features to achieve desired levels of attitudinal loyalty and conversions. In this study, we argue that the perception of shopping experiences within a producer's e-store may vary, resulting in different outcomes depending on the specific cross-channel shopping journey undertaken by the customer. However, existing studies have not explored whether the effects of the online shopping experience differ between showroomers and other customers. Addressing this gap, our study proposes a model illustrating the effects of online shopping experience on attitudinal loyalty and online purchase intention toward the producer's brand. The model is then evaluated using data collected from a sportswear brand's e-store, distinguishing between showroomers and other customer segments. Data are analyzed using partial least squares structural equation modeling (PLS-SEM) and some of its extensions, including the cross-validated predictive ability test (CVPAT). Specifically, the measurement invariance of composite models (MICOM) procedure is performed to enable multigroup comparisons. The analyses are executed using SmartPLS.

ABSTRACT. Fashion education is crucial in preparing students for the dynamic and diverse fashion industry. However, the traditional educational approach often does not adequately focus on the potential benefits of multidisciplinary collaborations, resulting in a gap between different faculties. This paper explores the impact of interdisciplinary collaborations on future employment for graduates and proposes an interdisciplinary approach to fashion education. This paper presents an interdisciplinary course in fashion management and highlights the need for such a course in the fashion designer curriculum. The study identifies gaps and challenges and advocates for collaboration and knowledge sharing among faculty members. The course utilizes explicit and tacit knowledge capabilities to enhance student engagement, drawing on concepts from design methodology, agile frameworks, and creativity. It presents a case study conducted at Shenkar Engineering. Design. Art. illustrating the challenges faced during the multidisciplinary collaboration and proposes mixed teaching methodologies to integrate diverse disciplinary fields in fashion education.

ABSTRACT. This study responds to literature calls to investigate the different social and psychological antecedents of negative consumer emotional well-being in the context of the health crisis Covid-19. We perform a path analysis on a sample of Australian consumers during the Covid-19 lockdown. We find that social norms and word-of-mouth increase consumer fear-of-missing-out which in turn fuels panic buying behavior. Such behavior is moreover spurred by positive motivations to panic buy. By contrast, we find that consumer ability to self-regulate during Covid-19’s reduces their tendencies to succumb to panic buying. We moreover find that such self-regulation is enhanced through sustainable product consumption behavior during Covid-19. Lastly, it was found that panic buying has a negative influence on emotional well-being of consumers. Implications of our findings for theory and future research directions are provided.

ABSTRACT. The purpose of this study was to explore dominant topics and sentiments surrounding fashion in the metaverse employing a conceptual framework outlined by Elmasry et al. (2022). Utilizing 84,783 tweets from January 2019 to December 2022, we identified fourteen topics with four themes based on two-step topic modeling analyses (Latent Dirichlet Allocation and Gibbs Sampling Dirichlet Multinomial Mixture). These topics were visualized using pyLDAvis to label topics. Then, sentiments for each tweet were analyzed using a RoBERTa transformer model. This study contributes valuable insights to fashion communication literature by empirically analyzing Twitter discourse on dominant topics and themes related to fashion in the metaverse over three years. The results suggest a sustained interest in fashion NFTs, paving the way for continued growth and acceptance. Fashion companies are advised to strategically plan marketing initiatives integrating NFTs with virtual products in the metaverse, recognizing the evolving landscape of digital fashion.

ABSTRACT. Within the music industry, the topic of fan-related behavior is barely researched, as literature on the music market has mainly focused on piracy (Borja et al., 2015), economic theories on superstars (Coelho & Mendes, 2019), and music information retrieval (Fricke et al., 2018), among others. Hence there is a big research gap related to what makes consumers consistently prefer certain music artists, to the detriment of others, and how the loyalty progressive dynamic works in this industry. What factors influence fan-related behavior in the music industry? Music tone and style can be trendy. An online questionnaire was designed and conducted in the platform Qualtrics. First, the participants had to choose a music artist to be able to answer the rest of the questionnaire. The rest of the questions were answered with a specific artist that they liked in mind, to grant more accurate responses. A total of 500 individuals answered the questionnaire, of which 484 were valid answers. the more the fans perceive a certain artist to be cool, the more they will have a positive attitude toward him/her. The more music consumers perceive a certain artist, (popular or not) to be of high quality, the more they will have a positive attitude to him/her, affirming quality as an important factor to keep choosing a certain music artist.

ABSTRACT. Over the past two decades, the luxury industry has undergone significant transformations. To maintain consumer engagement and visibility, luxury brands are now exploring the digital entertainment space, complementing their traditional strengths with a digital presence (Gilliland, 2020). In early 2019, Moschino released a capsule collection featuring iconic Sims motifs, which were later sold within the Sims game. Following this, Louis Vuitton became a trailblazer by selling “skins” in the League of Legends game. Skins are graphic downloads that alter the appearance of in-game characters. Subsequently, other renowned brands such as Gucci, Marc Jacobs, Valentino, and Balenciaga embraced this trend and collaborated with online games. Nonetheless, the digitalization of luxury brands and their foray into game advertising remains a recent and controversial subject (Jain et al., 2023). Luxury brands have long been synonymous with qualities like high quality, prestige, premium status, and uniqueness (Ko et al., 2019). These attributes may not align seamlessly with the more mainstream and potentially less niche nature of the games they are associating with or creating, which contrasts with the traditional approach of luxury brands. While luxury brands aim to convey their existence, they also desire discretion. This desire for discretion involves a delicate balance, combining selectivity and diffusion, rarity and enlargement, elitism, and increased awareness (Geerts & Veg-Sala, 2011). The challenge lies in maintaining the essence of luxury—characterized by exclusivity and sophistication—while venturing into a digital landscape that often emphasizes mass appeal and accessibility. Recently published literature contends that incorporating in-game advertising and gamification has been found to influence customer engagement (Jain et al., 2023), foster affective commitment (Saxena et al., 2023), and to impact brand equity (Rodrigues et al., 2024). Yet, there is still a need to comprehend how the in-game advertising of luxury brands impacts consumers’ perceptions of brand quality. This study seeks to focus particularly on perceived brand quality, as the expectation of premium quality is a fundamental requirement consumers have for luxury products or services (Aaker, 2009; Stathopoulou & Balabanis, 2019). This expectation stems from the consumers’ desire to ensure that their substantial investment in a high-priced product results in superior performance compared to conventional goods and services (Ostovan & Nasr, 2022). However, it is noteworthy that consumers may not uniformly perceive the same level of quality for identical products or services (Esmaeilpour, 2015). Within this context, this study aims to evaluate how in-game advertising impacts the brand quality perceptions of a luxury brand. Drawing on a solid theoretical foundation, our study uses a predictive model to reveal the link between four dimensions of brand coolness (useful, high status, popular, and subcultural), brand credibility, and perceived brand quality in the context of luxury fashion brands.

ABSTRACT. This study aims to analyze the impact of Augmented Reality and its attributes – Interactivity, Vivacity and Novelty – on consumer behaviour throughout its Purchase Decision Process. Therefore, we will investigate the influence of this technology on the individual's psychological state by reducing the insecurities and distrust felt when purchasing fashion products online. Such insecurities and mistrust characterise the concept of Cognitive Dissonance. To achieve the purpose of the study, a quantitative analysis was developed in which 139 individuals participated in the survey. The results concluded that Augmented Reality impacts the Consumer's Purchasing Decision Process. We also demonstrated that the attributes of augmented reality stimulate consumer behaviour at the beginning of the experience when collecting information and choosing one product over another. This same stimulation is essential for increasing security when purchasing the product, which favourably influences the post-purchase evaluation, reducing the feeling of regret, typical of the psychological state of Cognitive Dissonance.

ABSTRACT. Continuing growth in the luxury fashion industry reveals the significant contribution to environmental issues, overconsumption, and waste of resources. The slowly growing expansion of collaborative consumption provides luxury brands with opportunities to engage in sustainable consumption and to understand consumer valuations toward second-hand fashion.

An experimental study was conducted to examine the impact of the type of second-hand luxury fashion (conventional vs. sustainable) on consumer valuations, namely on design, quality, trust, collaborative consumption preferences, and willingness to buy second-hand fashion. The moderating role of voluntary simplicity was also tested. Further, a mediation analysis of positive emotions between the type of second-hand luxury fashion and consumer valuations was examined.

Findings indicate that consumers exhibit a more robust valuation toward conventional than sustainable second-hand luxury. The moderating effect of voluntary simplicity on the relationship between types of second-hand luxury fashion and consumer valuations is particularly relevant. Individual differences in minimalistic lifestyles affect consumers’ preferences to a point where sustainable second-hand fashion is no longer a differentiating factor. This phenomenon is especially evident in consumers high in voluntary simplicity.

Moreover, the mediating role of positive emotions confirmed that consumers are driven by emotions when exposed to second-hand luxury fashion that is conventional rather than sustainable. This confirms the overall assumptions of this study that conventional luxury is related to feelings and pleasure, serving intrinsic needs and personal fulfilment.

The current research provides valuable insights concerning the paradox between second-hand luxury fashion and sustainability. It provides theoretical and practical implications for marketers, managers, and brands about the important role of individual differences, such as voluntary simplicity and consumers' decisions when evaluating second-hand luxury fashion. Findings suggest that participating in voluntary simplicity and a reduced lifestyle justifies their unwillingness to engage in sustainable second-hand luxury purchases.

ABSTRACT. The fashion industry generates substantial waste, from production to consumption, throughout its supply chain. Numerous studies, reports, and organizations have extensively probed the environmental repercussions of the fashion sector (Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017). Annually, the production and abandonment of millions of tons of apparel contribute to the escalating challenge, propelled by the fast fashion phenomenon emphasizing mass production and subsequent mass disposal. Addressing this issue necessitates a shift in consumer behavior towards more ethical consumption practices. Ethical consumption encompasses a spectrum of actions, including purchasing, consuming, and disposing of products. This paper delves into the specific aspect of consumer decision-making concerning the mode of disposition. Consumers face various alternatives for parting with their possessions, such as donating, discarding, renting, or selling in secondary markets (Jacoby et al., 1977). The determinants of such disposal behavior encompass the object's characteristics and value, the consumer's personality and relationship with the object, and the social and material environment surrounding the consumer (Cerio & Debenedetti, 2021). Predicated on these factors, the consumers decide whether to keep the item. If the consumer chooses to dispose of it, the next question is whether to redistribute or throw it away. This paper categorizes the act of redistributing clothes as an ethical disposition behavior and seeks to comprehend the factors influencing such conduct. Employing a logistic regression model on a dataset of Japanese consumers, this study identifies the factors contributing to the ethical disposition behavior of fashion apparel. The findings reveal that consumers who prioritize fashion trends and consciousness are more inclined to opt for ethical alternatives in clothing disposition. While consumer and marketing research traditionally emphasizes the acquisition of goods, this paper endeavors to enrich understanding by exploring disposition behavior in today's dynamic marketing landscape.

ABSTRACT. In recent times, sustainability has been emphasized in fashion marketing, and within this context, access-based fashion services are gaining attention as a means for fashion brands to achieve sustainability. With these services, consumers can access products by paying periodic fees instead of owning them. This shift towards choosing access over ownership may reduce the need for mass production of clothing and mitigate issues related to clothing disposal. However, since there are still consumers who prefer ownership, there is a need for academic exploration into the factors influencing these choices. Previous research of access-based consumption has claimed that consumer preference of access over ownership is diminished by strong relevance to the self. However, it may not be a case in luxury fashion categories. This research claims that regarding luxury brands, self-relevance promotes both access and ownership. Rather, ownership is facilitated by intrinsic motivations, while access-based consumption is increased by extrinsic motivations. We conduct consumer survey to collect a dataset and estimate a nested logit model with consumer choice (ownership, access, and no consumption) as dependent variable, and two variables, i.e., self-relationship with the luxury goods and the ratio of intrinsic/extrinsic motivation, as independent variables. The results support our hypotheses. Sellers should claim that their products are worth owing, while access-based service providers should emphasize that the products are worth showing off to the others.

ABSTRACT. Luxury, deeply intertwined with consumer behavior, cultural values, and economic dynamics (Veblen, 1899), has undergone a profound transformation into new luxury (Silverstein and Fiske, 2003), characterized by a shift towards meaningfulness and well-being (Kauppinen-Räisänen, 2019). The scarcity of research challenging the meanings of luxury presents a notable issue (Batat, 2023). This academic article explores the evolution of luxury and the “new luxury” concept from a managerial perspective. Tracing luxury's historical trajectory from opulence to its modern form as an experiential (Wang, 2022) and value-driven phenomenon involved gathering insights from a qualitative research conducted between November and December 2020 with 18 professionals across diverse luxury sectors. These professionals, based in countries including France, Italy, Monaco, the UAE, the USA, Poland, and Portugal, provided invaluable perspectives, enabling an in-depth analysis of the evolving nature of luxury. Employing the in-depth interview method in a hybrid approach, this study reveals a shift in luxury from materialism to prioritizing meaningful experiences, authenticity, and ethical considerations. Understanding the nuanced concept of luxury in contemporary context, where various interpretations coexist, is akin to distinguishing the difference between genuine gold and gold-plated metal. This distinction, often subtle and not immediately apparent, is essential to comprehend the true essence of luxury, necessitating a discerning and tactile approach to fully appreciate its depth and complexity. Understanding luxury is crucial, as brands increasingly identify themselves with a range of descriptors from “traditional luxury” to “mass luxury” (Kapferer and Bastien, 2009). The study delves into old and new luxury paradigms, addressing the gap by enhancing the empirical comprehension of the luxury construct from the management viewpoint.

ABSTRACT. Disruptive technological innovations, such as immersive technologies, are important for hospitality and tourism, and heritage in particular. One of such technologies is Augmented Reality (AR), which is increasingly adopted by heritage sites. Yet, the exact role of AR for amplifying the behavioural outcomes of visitors requires further study. Informed by appraisal theory, this study aims to (i) investigate how cognitive and affective appraisals influence the loyalty toward heritage destination, and (ii) examine the interaction of AR with the behavioural outcomes of such appraisals.

ABSTRACT. AI-generated luxury apparel poses a significant challenge to the traditional conventions of creativity and design. This research offers a distinctive opportunity to investigate the intersection of human and artificial intelligence creative processes while evaluating consumer perceptions and valuing these transformative innovations. In a period characterized by heightened apprehensions over generative AI, the investigation of consumer perceived value and willingness to purchase AI-generated luxury apparel holds significant relevance.

ABSTRACT. Social identity theory emphasizes the importance of self-concept and self-image for individuals, and builds on the premise that each individual seeks to identify oneself as a member of chosen groups. The importance of ‘belonging’ to such groups appears particularly important in the case of luxury brands. For specific product categories, including wine, club memberships further strengthen and contribute to this sense of belonging. The question is whether virtual wine tastings, which became a necessity during the pandemic, are here to stay, given their role in joining and retaining wine club membership. In order to respond to this challenge, this study adopts the social identity theory and follows a quantitative research design. Findings from small luxury wineries in the US, suggest that virtual wine tastings offer an effective, alternative communication channel, and may further strengthen the direct relationship between the winery and its remote customer. Findings appear particularly important in the age of digital transformation, for scholars and practitioners alike.

ABSTRACT. This study explores how trust in ethical commitments, specifically related to animal rights, can enhance the persuasiveness of sustainable fashion advertising by eliciting guilt. This effect is particularly pronounced among consumers with high levels of empathic concern and those who have previously contributed to animal welfare causes.

ABSTRACT. Sustainable fashion encompasses various practices, including environmental and social considerations, slow fashion, reuse, recycling, cruelty-free, and anti-consumption. While fashion brands emphasize sustainability in their corporate communications, they often lag in incorporating it into product-oriented messaging. Drawing from signaling theory and information processing, this research explores the impact of the amount of product-oriented sustainability information on consumer responses. Particularly, we propose that as the amount of sustainable information increases, negative consumers’ responses may emerge, challenging the effectiveness of sustainability signals. This effect can be explained by the phenomenon of information overload, which suggests that excessive information amount can surpass individuals' cognitive processing capacity, leading to decreased information processing and potentially negative outcomes. Through an exploratory content analysis, this ongoing research investigates product-oriented sustainability information on luxury and fast fashion brands' e-commerce platforms. Results indicate variations in the presentation of sustainable product attributes, with some brands allocating a significant portion of product information to sustainability. Based on these results, in the following steps (still in progress), this study will present a series of experiments to assess the effect of the amount of product-oriented sustainability information on consumers responses. We predict that amount of information on sustainable product attributes of fashion brands can backfire, leading to negative consumer responses. The findings suggest the need for fashion brands to carefully balance the amount of sustainability information to avoid information overload and ensure positive consumer responses. This study contributes to research on sustainability communications in the fashion context and research on consumer behavior. Moreover, this research underscores the evolving landscape of sustainable fashion communications and its implications for industry stakeholders.

ABSTRACT. Governments and institutions are increasingly advocating for sustainable development, aiming to transform the global economy into a more sustainable model for both business and consumption (OCED, 2011; Campos et al., 2020). This pressure compelling firms to transition towards sustainable business models, is attracting the interest of scholars establishing a growing trend in the literature (Demiler et al., 2019).

In this context, the luxury fashion industry presents an interesting case. Despite the uncertainty in the international arena, the global luxury fashion market was valued at USD 123.05 billion in 2022, demonstrating remarkable resilience. Projections further suggest that the industry is expected to reach a revenue of USD 198.55 billion by 2031 (McKinsey&Company, 2023; Straitsresearch, 2024) .

However, it is important to note that the luxury fashion industry has received criticism for its negative social and environmental impact. Firms within this industry have been called out several times for depleting natural resources (Olšanová, Gook, & Zlatić (2018), generating of pollution (Pohlmann et al. ,2022), exploiting employees, and using animals when testing new materials (Athwal, et al. 2019). As a result, luxury fashion companies are more susceptible to the scrutiny of consumers. These factors have contributed to the perception that sustainability and luxury fashion industry are fundamentally opposed (Campos et al., 2020; Grazzini et al., 2021).

On the other hand, the luxury fashion industry is actively taking steps to embrace sustainability. Many companies within the industry are compelled to communicate their commitment to sustainability as consumers are increasingly becoming more conscious of the environment and social impact of their purchasing choices (Lundbland and Davies, 2015). It is evident that, whether driven by genuine sustainability goals or engaging in potential greenwashing, luxury fashion companies are investing in sustainable business practise, contributing to the growth of sustainable fashion markets (Grazzini et al., 2021).

Within this framework, the intersection of luxury fashion and sustainability gains significance. This has prompted the current research to undertake a systematic literature review aiming to identify and systematize the relevant literature dealing with the investigated issue and ascertain its main patterns and evolutionary dynamics (Fink, 2020; Moher et al., 2009; Petticrew and Roberts, 2006; Snyder, 2019; Tranfield et al., 2003). For conducting the bibliometric analysis, we utilised the open-source bibliometrix software (Aria and Cuccurullo, 2017).

ABSTRACT. The objective behind digitizing the fashion industry was to enhance the efficiency of designing, producing, and conducting business for physical products in the real world. This initiative aimed to foster sustainability through the utilization of diverse digital tools. In our study involving 98 digital natives, we conducted a comprehensive investigation into the factors influencing the adoption and purchase of digital fashion. To delve deeper into these aspects, we complemented our research with experimentation, allowing us to analyze the impact of affordability of luxury, sustainability, endorsement on social media, and influencer endorsements on the actual adoption behavior of digital natives of digital fashion. Our approach to digital fashion was to consider the digital human and the metaverse. Indeed, we wanted to focus on how consumers could either way dress their avatar or themselves with 3D clothes, either way in the metaverse, for social media, or as a service that can be used for other purposes such as fitting for example.

Our experimentation phase involved presenting participants with various scenarios we created five versions of the same advertising showing a 3D digital fashion show. Through this approach, we observed nuanced reactions and preferences, allowing us to draw a deeper insight into the complex interplay of these factors. Our early results show that the factors that could explain the best adoption and purchase of Digital fashion relate to the desire to protect the environment, to be seen on social media, and to buy luxury clothes and apparel for less. When these advertisements are endorsed by a virtual influencer then the effect of these advertising increases the desire to purchase digital fashion because of environmental and price-related factors.

Our study aims to provide actionable insights for industry stakeholders striving to navigate the dynamic landscape of digital fashion. Crafting strategies that emphasize affordability, sustainability, and influencer collaborations can significantly impact the adoption trajectory within this evolving market. As digital fashion continues to redefine the industry, our research contributes valuable knowledge to guide decision-makers in meeting the preferences and expectations of the digital-native consumer demographic.

ABSTRACT. The U.S. population has grown by 60% since 1970, but consumer spending has increased by 400%. Fast fashion has helped feed the consumption frenzy by mass-producing clothing that follows the latest trends with quick turn-overs and at a low cost. In response to this worrisome trend, some sustainable clothing brands have asked consumers to buy selectively and less, which the academic field of sustainable marketing has recognized as “green demarketing.” To support such fashion brands and their demarketing campaigns, we tap into the SHIFT (Social influence, Habit formation, Individual self, Feelings and cognition, and Tangibility) framework that discusses five psychological factors leading to sustainable consumer behavior. As an exploratory study, we conducted Study 1, tested the five conditions in demarketing messages, and compared them with a control condition to see which condition best emerged as helping to create positive perceptions of the brand. In addition, corporate social responsibility orientation (CSRO), a measure of an individual’s beliefs that corporations should practice CSR (Carroll 1979), was tested to see the differential impact of SHIFT messaging for demarketing fashion brands. With belief congruence theory as the main theoretical guide, lower CSRO individuals were expected to be more prone to messaging effects. With the fashion brand signaling its sustainability, higher CSRO individuals will likely rate the brand as positive, no matter what SHIFT messaging is incorporated in the demarketing campaign. In light of the “Individual self (self-interest)” (vs. control) emerging as persuasive for the lower CSRO individuals in Study 1, Study 2 will be conducted to test the self-interest SHIFT message (vs. control) again, but this time with company motive (altruistic vs. self) disclosures. Generally, when companies engage in green CSR practices, showing genuine altruistic (vs. self-serving) motives is better. However, for demarketing, it might be important for lower CSRO individuals to know what’s really “in it” for the fashion company. This might help decrease the perceived disfluency of the demarketing brand and campaign. The outcome is expected to be more positive when the SHIFT message and company motive focus on the “self” for lower CSRO individuals. Again, for higher CSRO individuals, the marketing messaging effect will not have any significant impact. Demarketing may seem like an oxymoron, especially for fashion brands that need to drive sales to survive. However, from a fashion sustainability viewpoint, demarketing’s co-evolution with consumers and joint discovery of alternatives to traditional consumerism could help build an ongoing and lasting relationship between the company and the consumer.

ABSTRACT. This ongoing project aims to test and validate one of the most important software tools for facial expression detection, FaceReader by Noldus, for identifying emotions in art painting. Utilizing art in marketing acknowledges its power to evoke emotions in consumers and to enhance advertising’s impact. Given the emotionality of the art infusion effect in advertising adds, the ultimate goal is to expand the application of the FaceReader tool to the field of art, which shares strong connections with the fashion industry. Previous studies have shown that emotional responses to art depend on various factors, including the artwork itself, the context, and the individual. However, the motivations underlying specific emotional responses remain unclear. By focusing on the emotions depicted in painted characters, we aim to bridge this gap. The study utilizes a combination of neuromarketing techniques based on facial expression detection and traditional surveys. It contributes to understanding the motivations behind emotional responses to art, providing managerial implications for fashion brands that incorporate art into their marketing and communication strategies.

ABSTRACT. This study utilized a mixed-method study to investigate the influence of the 2020-2021 global pandemic on Generation Z's denim consumption, focusing on motivations for purchasing sustainable denim in thrift stores. Amidst retail industry challenges, the denim market remains lucrative, with a shift towards secondhand and resale markets driven by younger consumers' ethical and environmental concerns. Utilizing the Theory of Reasoned Action (TRA) and Motivation Theory, the research explores intrinsic and extrinsic factors that guide Generation Z's buying decisions. This study applied a mixed method approach to better understand the relationship between narrative-based experiential data and the survey data. Post qualitative and quantitative data collection, the results were then triangulated to form a singular holistic finding that associated and identified new themes from each method. There were 13 in-depth interview conducted with each interview consisted of 11 pre-determined questions regarding the influence of COVID-19 on buying and wearing denim, the preferred characteristics of denim when purchasing decisions are made, and understanding which denim brands are important to Generation Z post-pandemic. The quantitative data gathered via an online survey on Amazon Mechanical Turk (100 respondents) assessed key themes found from a prior qualitative study such as hedonic, utilitarian, and ethical motivations, along with subjective norms and purchase intentions, using established scales from Tyrvainen et al. (2020); Kim et al. (2006); Monferrer et al. (2020); and Ajzen & Fishbein (1980). The data analysis was performed using the R statistical software, version R.4.30.

Key findings reveal that size inclusivity and desirable fit are significant hedonic and utilitarian motivations, while the pandemic has heightened ethical motivations towards sustainable purchasing from secondhand retailers. Hedonic motivations are closely linked to inclusive sizing—a response to Generation Z's desire for fashion that caters to diverse body types. The pursuit of a desirable fit, a core utilitarian motivation, was significant for 84% of participants. Despite assumptions, hedonic and utilitarian motivations showed no significant effect on purchase intentions in thrift stores; however, ethical motivation did. Subjective norms were found to moderate the relationship between utilitarian motivation and purchase intention. This research contributes to understanding Generation Z's consumer behavior in the post-pandemic denim market, offering retailers insights to align strategies with the evolving motivations of this demographic.

ABSTRACT. Companies spread increasingly more information about CSR initiatives. However, they have to overcome an authenticity problem as stakeholders may doubt the veracity of such initiatives. While previous works mainly focused on consumer evaluations and perceptions about authentic CSR information, CSR authenticity in the literature on sustainable supply chain management (SSCM) remains in its early phases. To fill this gap, the present study investigates CSR authenticity in the supply chain from the firms’ side. The research focuses on leather tanning companies, presenting a multiple case study of Italian enterprises. Theoretically, the study contributes to the literature on authenticity of CSR disclosure, by exploring what information might increase firms’ authenticity perceptions. From a managerial standpoint, the study provides useful guidelines for supply chain businesses to develop effective CSR communication to increase the perceived authenticity of their sustainability efforts.

ABSTRACT. The potential of Artificial Intelligence (AI - Stone et al., 2020; Haefner et al., 2021) is prominently entering the fashion industry at many levels (Luce, 2018). From design support systems, for instance, using generative adversarial networks (GANs) to design fashion products (Sohn et al., 2020), from fashion recommendation systems through sensory evaluation and virtual try-on systems when consumers shop apparel online (Gonçalves et al., 2023), to intelligent tracking systems, and fashion e-marketing by arranging AI chatbots to influence the online customer experience in e-retailing (Chen et al., 2021). Examples in the use of these disruptive technologies to improve the value for enterprises and customers are constantly increasing, (Thomassey and Zeng, 2018), and the retail system is trying to adapt its business model to develop a more involving in-store shopping experience through digital technologies, enriching the brand value (Cuomo et al., 2020). Nevertheless, are managers sure that the solicitations provided by these tools could increase the value of the overall in-store customer experience or, conversely, they distract the shoppers from their main purpose? Above all, are firms sure that the effort to interact with the AI devices will positively impact the customer experience? In other words, understanding how consumers respond to new technologies, especially artificial intelligence, becomes crucial. The study aims to examine consumers’ acceptance and willingness to use AI devices in their shopping activities and to provide valuable insights for retailers. By adapting the TAM “Technology Acceptance Model” (Davis 1989) and the following versions (TAM 2 and TAM 3 - Venkatesh and Davis, 2000; Venkatesh and Bala, 2008) and the UTAUT Model and UTAUT 2 model (Venkatesh et al., 2003; Venkatesh et al., 2012), the study tests consumers’ intention of using AI devices in fashion store, providing interesting theoretical and practical implications. Data were collected through an online survey addressing consumers from various generational cohorts to compare and contrast emerging differences in the acceptance and willingness to use AI devices during in-store shopping activities.

ABSTRACT. Interactions between consumers and companies have shifted to the digital sphere, resulting in a transition from human-driven to technology-prominent services encounters. The fashion industry unlike any other industry stimulates the implementation of e-service agents, also known as chatbots, for managing customer relationships. Chatbots are increasingly used in customer service of many fashion brands (e.g., Victoria’s Secret, J.CREW). However, research findings indicate that consumers tend to be generally skeptical of them and often prefer human service agents. Research investigating how consumers perceive chatbots compared to human service agents in a service failure and recovery context is still scarce. The experimental study investigates if customers’ perceptions of interactional justice differ depending on whether a human service agent or chatbot agent conveys the service recovery response in a critical or uncritical recovery situation in the context of a fashion e-tailer. Moreover, the degree of anthropomorphism of the chatbot agent is considered.

ABSTRACT. This study evaluates the impact of brand image robots in relation to retail brand equity and purchase intention, in order to provide insights for the robots manufacturing companies. While there is extensive prior literature analyzing various design features in such exterior-facing displays, brand image robots have not received much research attention. Utilizing in-depth interviews and a quantitative cross-cultural approach, the paper investigates the impact of retail brand equity in the retail environment from Korea, China, and Italy, taking into consideration the Hofstede’s theory. This study provides profound insights into the practical application of brand image robots, offering valuable guidance for retailers, researchers and manufacturing companies alike.

ABSTRACT. Introduction and literature

The fashion business maintains the focus of its communications on the consumer-facing promotional and glamorous aspects of the industry. However, communication by the employees responsible for producing the garments that generate the financial turnover in this sector, has attracted minimal attention in comparison. In contrast to high levels of investment in marketing communications in the fashion business, substantially less scope is offered to capture and act upon the views of manufacturing operatives working within this often unstable industry. Key social justice issues which could benefit from further communication from workers include: poor employment conditions, forced labour, child labour and payment below the minimum or living wage. The literature review aims to identify (or evaluate) marketing communication tools that facilitate the amplification of worker voice that will in turn, provide a platform to enhance social justice within the fashion supply chain.

In order to answer the central research question ‘in what ways can social justice be enhanced in the fashion supply chain through the promotion of employee communication?’, we will address the following objectives:

•To identify the various modes of promotion and marketing channels for facilitating employee communication available to factory operatives, at individual and collective levels;

•To assess the effectiveness of marketing communications tools and channels for promoting employee communication in enhancing social justice.

Methodology

The study will adopt a qualitative approach, using semi-structured interviews to provide insights into both employees’ experiences in the fashion business and the operations of non-government organisations (NGOs) which support workers’ rights. The study is funded by a major research funding body and primary research will take place with employees from manufacturers involved in the development and production of clothing.

Findings and analysis

The findings will analyse the effectiveness of relevant marketing communications tools and channels in expediting communications from employees in practice, with the aim of enhancing social justice within the setting of the clothing industry. Employee voice has three major connections with which to engage in two-way communication: the organisations in which the employees work, the overall sector in which these organisations are situated and non-government organisations (NGOs) with an interest in supporting workers in the sector. The implications of the findings in this study will be of potential interest and benefit to these three groups, in addition to the workers themselves.

ABSTRACT. This paper combines digitalization and sustainability from a branding perspective in B2B markets. In particular, the ingredient branding strategy and the “Intel Inside” effect are considered in the digital communication of B2B companies in the fashion industry. We adopt a qualitative approach through multiple case studies of Italian fashion companies.

ABSTRACT. Identifying emerging fashion trends and the resulting product innovations they inspire has become increasingly important for brands and retailers in the fashion sector. One of the main areas of focus for marketers, buyers and designers is to predict change in their consumers, in their lifestyles, values and aspirations, and interpret and incorporate these in time into their product ranges. Hyper-connected consumers are constantly driving change in the fashion industry such as retail business models, but more specifically the speed of the fashion trend cycle. The adoption of high-involvement products by consumers such as fashion portray social symbolism (aiding in the construction and acceptance of a social world) and self-symbolism (acting as an extension of the consumer’s identity) so create higher degrees of uncertainty and risk (Elliot, Percy, & Pervan, 2015). However, investment in design can positively influence the growth of companies and have an impact on their competitive performance (Landoni, Dell’Era, Ferraloro, Peradotto, Karlson & Verganti, 2016), and the concept of Design Thinking can become more pertinent in driving innovation in the practice of design (Candi, Dell’Era, Magistretti, Swan, and Verganti, 2023). Employing a qualitative methodology, the central aim of this study is to investigate the influence of trend agencies on creativity and innovation in product development within a business-to-business (B2B) fashion context. 

ABSTRACT. The Russian fashion industry market is undergoing structural and qualitative changes due to the influence of new macroeconomic, political and social factors. Despite the fact that well-known global fashion brands left the market or suspended their activities temporarily in 2022, Russian fashion market remains competitive and saturated. According to Data Insight (2024), by the end of 2023, the volume of the Russian market amounted to 2,700 billion rubles, which is only 12.3% less than in 2021. Consumers in Russia prefer luxury brands and are used to overpaying for goods from original collections, however, the share of the luxury segment in the fashion retail market is 8% (Data Insight, 2024). Another important factor in choosing a fashion brand, noted by Russian consumers, is the brand’s focus on the sustainable development of the company and involving eco-friendly materials in basic collections. This study aims to identify the main attributes of marketing exit strategy for new fashion market players in Russia, following changes in consumer behaviour. The study examines the relationship between new consumer experience and attitudes towards new fashion brands.

ABSTRACT. This study aims to investigate the impact of introducing luxury products made with alternative materials on sales. Referring to studies of remanufactured products and stakeholder theory, we empirically find that introducing such green luxury products not only preserves existing customer bases but also expands sales channels by attracting new consumers.

ABSTRACT. This paper presents a detailed case study that investigates the nuanced dynamics of brand desirability in the wake of a celebrity scandal, focusing on the renowned luxury brand, Louis Vuitton, within the Chinese market. The relationship marketing theory was adopted to evaluate the predictive influence of affective and calculative commitment on the luxury brand desirability for Louis Vuitton in the Chinese market, via the mediating effect of resilience to negative information. A close-ended survey of actual and potential Chinese Louis Vuitton customers was used to develop and test hypotheses. Findings from the study show that affective and calculative commitment significantly influences resilience brand desirability, via the mediating effect of resilience to negative information. Celebrity brand congruence also significantly moderates the relationship between affective and calculative commitments, and resilience to negative information. In addition to expanding existing knowledge of how consumers react to brand disasters, the study findings offer insightful strategic and managerial insights for companies looking to improve and restore their desirability following reputational setbacks.

ABSTRACT. Purpose: As blockchain technology continues to reshape the digital landscape, this paper investigates the dynamic interplay between customers’ trust and intentions to use blockchain-integrated third-party e-commerce website to purchase luxury watches, using the trust theory as a theoretical framework.

Methodology: An explanatory research design and a quantitative research approach via cross-sectional surveys were adopted to provide a holistic understanding of the antecedent factors influencing consumer trust and intention to use blockchain integrated third-party e-commerce websites to purchase luxury watches.

Findings: Study findings revealed that data integrity, non-repudiation, and privacy protection significantly influenced consumers’ trust and intentions to use blockchain-integrated third-party e-commerce websites.

Originality/Value: This paper contributes valuable insights to both academia and industry, offering a nuanced understanding of the intricate relationships between consumer trust and intentions in the context of blockchain-integrated third-party e-commerce websites.

Practical Implications: The study findings further have implications for e-commerce stakeholders, informing strategies to enhance consumer trust and foster the successful integration of blockchain technology in the rapidly evolving digital marketplace.

ABSTRACT. Effective communication is crucial for service providers to establish long-term relationships with B2B customers. The present research investigates the role of communication type and communication method in B2B relationships. Specifically, we examine the relative impact of communication type (project-specific vs. relational communication) and communication method (online vs. in-person communication) on satisfaction and renewal intention as well as the moderating influence of AI. To do so, we conducted two online experiments in which a supplier provided human-based versus AI-based services to its client. Experiment 1 manipulated the levels of project-specific communication and relational communication. Results indicated that while project-specific communication was important for increasing satisfaction for both AI-based and human-based services, the impact of relational communication was greater for the AI-based service, particularly when project-specific communication was low. Experiment 2 examined the impact of communication methods (online vs. in-person) on renewal intention. For the human-based service, the impact of online versus in-person communication had no difference. For the AI-based project, however, in-person communication was more important for managers with high business experience, whereas online communication was more effective for those with relatively low business experience. In sum, the present research highlights the important role of communication in establishing long-term relationships with B2B customers and the moderating influence of AI.

ABSTRACT. In the past few years, luxury fashion brands have linked their image to different cities, moving from their country and city of origins to overseas destinations. While brands like Dolce & Gabbana have built their brand through itinerant activities, others have started exploring opportunities only recently and linked with their resort collections or holidays mood. According to The Business of Fashion, this can be defined as one of the 2024 luxury trends, the ‘vacation mood’ (Ahmed & Berg, 29 November 2023). The aim of this project is to explore how temporary events organized by luxury fashion brands can enhance the visibility of cities that may not be directly connected to their heritage and how the choice of the destination can contribute to the fashion brand itself. Although the use of city branding to attract private investments has been widely studied (Dinnie, 2011; Cleave et al., 2016; Dastgerdi & De Luca, 2019), few studies have focused mutual branding generating positive outcome for both parties (Rossini & Nervino, 2019). This exploratory study focuses on a case study, Louis Vuitton Men’s Pre-Fall 2024 Show by Pharrell Williams in Hong Kong. The city conceived as a text has its own stories written by the different stakeholders across different channels (Karimzadeh et al., 2013). How newcomers contribute to it and how the city contributes to them as texts is what the study aims at revealing. Drawing upon a previous study (Rossini & Nervino, 2019), this paper conducts a social semiotic analysis of different texts produced about the fashion show, including videos, photos, news articles, press release, etc. disseminated across different channels to understand how the convergence of the two brands, LV and Hong Kong, into Pharrell William’s show mutually contributed to each other’s image. Preliminary findings show that while Pharrell Williams used the Victoria Harbour as a backdrop to a story of sailors’ travellers from Hawaii to Hong Kong recalling the journey of sailors in the past who made Hong Kong the place where East meets West since the 15th century and rely on the LV’s travel heritage (Belardi, 2023), Hong Kong used the event to relaunch itself as one of the fashion capitals. Those private events show that synergies among stakeholders can be built and empower the city. Furthermore, while stronger associations exist between cities and brands, such as Tiffany & Co. with New York, Gucci and Ferragamo with Florence, Hong Kong plays a role as historical flagship market for most luxury fashion brands. Can this event be defined as ‘contamination’ to quote the former mayor of Naples, De Magistris (YouTube)? He defined as such the Dolce & Gabbana’s show in Naples which amplified the outreach of the city brand through the multiple texts produced by brand, media, celebrities, but also citizens. While there was not much public engagement given the exclusivity of the event, we may use the term ‘contamination’ for the relaunch of the city as location for brand itinerant activities.

ABSTRACT. AI algorithms are being used in various fields to add value to existing products. For example, smart beauty devices, content recommendation service, diet management platform, and AI speakers recommend contents that fits the needs of users. Although AI is trying to recommend the optimal alternatives in various fields such as products and media contents on behalf of human agent, research has shown that people still prefer human to AI for the recommendation of hedonistic products compared to utilitarian products (Longoni and Cian, 2022). This is due to the lay-belief that AI will not be able to fulfill people's unique preferences, and one of the ways to mitigate this effect is to suggest algorithmic methods. For instance, when recommending experience goods to consumers, algorithms that recommend based on consumer individual data tend to be preferred, whereas when recommending search goods, algorithms that recommend based on other people's data tend to be preferred (Liao and Sundar, 2022). Previous studies have revealed that this trend is due to differences in consumers' need for cognition. This study further attempts to understand what cognitive processes consumers experience. This study aims to understand how the interaction of message framing with the purpose of using AI devices affects purchase intention through a cognitive process of self-reference. Furthermore, this study aims to determine what effective messages are suitable for various contexts of choosing AI devices.

ABSTRACT. Digital garments, computer-generated images of clothing worn and shared online or through virtual reality platforms challenge conventional notions of utility and legitimacy of fashion. Unlike physical garments, digital clothing lacks utilitarian value, prompting questions about consumer needs and acceptance. Yet, as the fashion sector confronts environmental concerns caused by its global, resource-intense practices and dependence on high levels of consumption, the emergence of Web 3 technology offers a potential solution through the commercialization of digital clothes. This paper examines the legitimacy of digital garments within the framework of industry categories, exploring their socio-cognitive dimensions and environmental implications. Drawing on “industry categories”, socially constructed partitions that classify businesses or organizations within a particular sector or field based on perceived similarities in their products, services, or operations, this study investigates how digital fashion brands employ storytelling to legitimize their products in the context of environmental sustainability. Through a qualitative multi-case study involving nine digital fashion brands, the research analyses strategies for promoting digital garments while considering socio-cognitive constructs such as field frames and schemas. Preliminary results illustrate how brands like The Fabricant, Carlings, and Tribute Brand position digital garments as eco-friendly alternatives to traditional fashion in an attempt to align practices with consumer values and societal trends. By leveraging Web 3 technology, these brands elaborate a discourse around the aim to reduce waste and pollution associated with textile production and consumption. The study contributes to a deeper understanding of the coevolution of socio-cognitive constructs and materiality in the emergence of digital garments as a distinct industry category, shedding light on their legitimacy and environmental implications. Ultimately, this research bridges theoretical frameworks and practical insights, offering valuable perspectives on the evolving landscape of digital fashion within the broader context of sustainability and industry innovation.

ABSTRACT. Although many individuals rely on information provided by non-human agents, such as artificial intelligence (AI), little research has investigated the impact of recommendations provided by different types of agents on customer satisfaction. Using behavioral and fMRI studies, this research shows how consumer responses to negative and positive offers are affected by whether the recommendation agent is AI or human. In a behavioral study, when the recommendation agent was AI, there was no difference in customer satisfaction between negative and positive offers. However, when the recommendation agent was human, customer satisfaction with positive offers was significantly higher than with negative offers. In an fMRI study, when the recommendation agent was AI, there was no difference in consumers' responses to negative and positive offers. However, when the recommendation agent was human, the region of primary somatosensory cortex and insula regions engaged in close relationships was activated with positive offers compared to negative offers. Therefore, this study contributes to improving the understanding of customer satisfaction by different types of assistants.

ABSTRACT. After the COVID-19 Pandemic, interest in biotechnology has increased further. Investors' interest in vaccine manufacturers has also increased in line with the global demand for COVID-19 vaccination. On the other hand, Advances in biotechnology are accompanied by problems with experimental ethics and bioethics. For example, the fact that some vaccine manufacturers produced COVID-19 vaccines using cell lines from aborted babies has become controversial as public interest in vaccine manufacturing technology grows (Zimmerman,2021). “Xenotransplantation” is also biotechnology that is receiving a lot of attention these days, which refers to an operation/procedure in which organs, tissues, or cells of animals, which are non-human specifications, are transplanted or injected into humans (Nature, 2023).  In the United States, more than 100,000 patients are waiting for kidney, heart, lung, and liver transplants. This technology, which is in strong demand, is also accompanied by problems such as animal experiment ethics. The characteristic of biotechnology, which is accompanied by ethical debates but is rapidly developing, shows the necessity of researching investors' ethical dilemmas. Neuroimaging is useful for identifying neurological mechanisms that regulate consumer behavior. This study investigated consumer investment sentiment in biotechnology with ethical dilemmas such as the above two biotechnology examples using 7T MRI. The results show that the participants' responses differ depending on whether it is an ethical vs. unethical experimental process and animal vs. human sacrifice.

ABSTRACT. This research examines the alignment between fashion practitioners’ and consumers’ perceptions of sustainability cues in the fashion industry, informed by signaling theory. The study employs a qualitative approach, conducting in-depth interviews with fashion practitioners and online focus groups with consumers from Southern European countries. The findings reveal some divergences between practitioners’ and consumers’ perspectives. Practitioners emphasize the importance of sustainable materials, eco-labels, and local production as key sustainability cues. Conversely, consumers, while also valuing sustainable materials, place greater emphasis on traditional fashion drivers like design, style, and brand. This indicates that sustainability, though recognized, is not the predominant factor in their purchasing decision process. The findings underscore the industry’s challenge in effectively communicating and integrating sustainability into the fashion narrative. It highlights the need for brands to educate consumers on sustainability features and integrate these seamlessly into product value propositions. Sustainability needs to become a more integral part of the fashion narrative, rather than an add-on feature, to align better with consumer expectations. Artificial intelligence can help in this process, by analyzing data on waste production, collection, and disposal. Limitations of the study include its qualitative and exploratory nature, limiting the generalizability of the findings, and the regional focus on Southern European participants. Future research should employ quantitative methods and a multicultural approach for a more comprehensive understanding of consumer attitudes and behaviors toward sustainability in fashion.

ABSTRACT. The goal of this study is to understand Generation Z´s perceptions and behaviors towards sustainable luxury fashion. This study employs a qualitative approach. Twenty in-depth interviews were conducted, and participants are Generation Z luxury fashion consumers in Luxembourg. NVivo was used to analyze the data. Several themes emerge from the interviews. Firstly, the sub-themes dimensions of luxury, levels of luxury fashion brands and motivations to buy luxury fashion are associated with the main topic luxury fashion. Secondly, related with sustainability in luxury fashion, we identify the sub-themes dimensions of sustainability, compatibility between sustainability and luxury, behavioral intentions towards sustainable luxury fashion, brand trust and, finally, identifiability of a sustainable luxury fashion brand. Thirdly, different sub-themes emerge around the topic of consumption behaviors concerning sustainability and luxury fashion- different ways of consumption, lifespan of luxury fashion and motivations for and against ethical consumption of luxury fashion. Finally, the topic of how the brand perception changes after Generation Z consumers know that a luxury fashion brand is sustainable is also explored and different emotions and consumption behaviors come up associated with the theme. Technologies, such as Augmented Reality and Virtual Reality are important tools that can help managers to highlight relevant product characteristics, namely, practicality that seems important for Generation Z luxury fashion consumers. Technology and Artificial Intelligence can also play an important role to increase transparency throughout the product lifecycle, which is highly valued by the interviewees.

ABSTRACT. In today's fiercely competitive service industry, fostering enduring customer relationships is paramount for businesses, as these connections lead to loyalty, positive word-of-mouth, and increased profits. However, maintaining strong relationships throughout the entire customer journey, from pre-purchase to post-purchase, requires consistent small victories at each decision-making point to gain a competitive edge.

Customer Experience (CX) has emerged as a critical competitive advantage within the service industry. It encompasses all direct and indirect interactions between customers and companies, evoking intrinsic subjective responses from customers (Chen et al., 2022). CX not only contributes to the establishment of long-lasting customer relationships (Becker & Jaakkola, 2020) but also serves as a more influential determinant of consumer behavior compared to traditional customer satisfaction metrics (Klaus & Maklan, 2013). Enhancing CX can lead to stronger correlations with loyalty intentions, making it a strategic priority for service firms.

While various factors influence CX in the retail environment, the impact of technology-driven shopping tools is gaining significant attention. The COVID-19 pandemic accelerated the shift to online channels, resulting in the closure of thousands of physical stores in the UK in 2022 (Daily Mail, 2023). However, store-based retailing still dominates, accounting for 70% of global fashion and footwear sales (Alexander & Rutter, 2022). To adapt to changing consumer behavior and compete with online retailers, offline retailers are focusing on creating valuable in-store experiences and embracing the "experiential" revolution (Servais et al., 2022).

Technology is reshaping retail operations and consumer behaviors, necessitating the adoption of innovative technologies such as augmented reality (AR), virtual reality (VR), and mixed reality (MR) to differentiate brands and enhance marketing effectiveness (Flostrand et al., 2020). Even luxury brands, traditionally cautious about technology's alignment with luxury values, have embraced technological innovations to enhance CX (Pantano et al., 2022). Consumers now seek personalized experiences both online and offline (Adhi et al., 2019).

Despite the growing interest in the impact of technology on retail and service contexts, there is a scarcity of research on smart retailing, particularly regarding the use of immersive technologies (Roy et al., 2017). Therefore, this research aims to explore the crucial relationship between CX and consumer behavior, highlighting CX's role in driving customer loyalty, positive word-of-mouth, and profitability. The study also investigates the potential of immersive technologies, including AR, VR, and MR, in revolutionizing CX within the retail industry.

The methodology employed in this study is participatory action research, a collaborative and experiential approach involving both researchers and participants. Participants will engage in scenario-based experiments in a mock shop, where they will experience various MR-enhanced shopping scenarios. Researchers will observe and document their reactions, perceptions, and behaviors. To assess shopping values and CX, adapted versions of the CX scale by Gahler et al. (2023) and the co-creation Experience scale by Verleye (2015) will be used, forming the basis for semi-structured interviews. Values play a crucial role in mediating the relationship between immersive technology experiences and subsequent behaviors. Qualitative data, including participant feedback and observations, will provide in-depth insights into their experiences.

ABSTRACT. The advent of virtual reality and augmented reality technologies have pushed user’s expectation for online experience to a new level. Social connections via texts alone can no longer satisfy appetite for the reality of virtual interaction. Subsequently, metaverse is invented to reimagine the way people work, play, socialize and live online (Xi et al., 2022). The metaverse is a created environment designed to bring together an improved fusion of the physical and virtual realms, as discussed in works by Ball (2022) and Dwivedi et al. (2022a). Following the rebranding of Facebook to Meta in 2021, there is a rapidly growing interest in the field of metaverse.

Research asserts that consumers build deep and meaningful relationships in the metaverse as they satisfy needs of relatedness, autonomy, competency and escapism. Moreover, living part of their ‘lives’ in the metaverse evokes feelings of creativity, enjoyment and sense of ‘living’ a more luxurious life (Ryan et al, 2006; Tamborini et al, 2010; Partala, 2011; Choi, Lee, and Kim, 2023). Users report that the metaverse provides them with visual, mental and intellectual stimulation and pleasure. They find that it satisfies their hedonic arousal needs, similar to the way people experience satisfaction when purchasing luxury items, thereby creating a sense of relative wealth (Tamborini et al, 2011), albeit perhaps being contrary to their physical lives.

Generation Z has emerged as a significant force behind the rapid growth of the luxury market, driving is expansion at unprecedented rates, and accounting for most of the growth of the global luxury market (D’arpizio and Levato, 2022; Luxe, 2023). Gen Zs cohort is not only growing in size, but also in purchasing power developing unique relationships with luxury brands. It is anticipated to dominate the luxury market in the next decade (Li and Shin, 2022). Consequently, marketers aiming to establish strong emotional connections with younger audiences, particularly Generation Z being enthusiasts of gamification (Milanesi, et al., 2022) may find marketing opportunities in the metaverse. As this bond has always been a priority for luxury brands (Shukla et al., 2016), participating in the metaverse through gamified experiences including virtual shopping, can assist in transitioning their online fans to purchasing their luxury brands offline too (Saxena, Jain, and Mishra, 2023). This approach, leveraging the gamified mechanics of the metaverse could result in fostering users’ high levels of engagement and their strong brand associations brands nurtured through the metaverse (Robson et al., 2015).

In this study, we use bibliometric analysis – the application of quantitative tools to bibliographic data (Broadus, 1987) to determine the current stage and avenues for future research of metaverse.

ABSTRACT. This research explores what technologies are used across the fashion shopping journey by different ages of consumers, how and why they are using them and what effect they have on their experience. Innovative technologies like Virtual Reality, Augmented Reality and 3D applications enabled via smart phones are used by many fashion brands to help consumers make informed decisions by creating immersive and hyper-realistic shopping experiences (Park et al., 2021). However, extant research on new retail technologies focuses on younger consumers, resulting in a gap in knowledge on the needs and wants of older generations regarding the design and incorporation of technologies into the shopping journey. Very little research considers age-related differences in shopping with metaverse technologies (Zhang et al., 2023). Without the knowledge or skills to interact with new technologies, older people could feel socially excluded. It is therefore essential to include older people in research and for retailers to consider their needs for the advancement of human wellbeing. The present study answers calls for research to be conducted with older consumers on new retail technologies (Chen et al., 2022; Zhang et al., 2023). The study will conduct qualitative semi-structured interviews to explore why consumers use certain technologies in their fashion shopping journey and how these can be made more age-inclusive. This study will contribute new knowledge to omnichannel literature, mapping the fashion customer journey holistically for all ages with new technologies. This fills a further literature gap as older consumers have been overlooked when it comes to their fashion shopping journey.

ABSTRACT. Global online retail sales, especially for clothing and fashion products amongst millennials are fast growing. Thus, there is need for retailers and researchers to study the drivers behind the online retail sales growth for appropriate strategy response and opportunity utilization. Millennials spend averagely 10 hours a day on online and social media spaces, are large in size, influence and spending potential. Considering how much millennials spend on fashion goods and services, there are concerns that they may end up being cash-strapped and spend less on education and health services. This may in turn affect their future financial and psychological well-being. Thus, this paper develops a framework to examine the various drivers and well-being outcomes of millennials’ online retail purchase of clothing and fashion products. An integrated conceptual model that considers the life-course paradigm is developed and planned to be with data collected from two emerging markets: China and South Africa. These two countries both have increasing number of shopping malls and online shopping sites that provide “shopping cathedrals”, where millennials hangout, shop and may sometimes do so excessively.

ABSTRACT. Algorism is at the heart of the digital society. Importantly, as smart algorithms and AIs increasingly expand the capabilities of their products (Raff et al., 2020; Shanks and Hintermann 2019), our research has important practical implications. Consumers have specific preferences for different types of algorithms depending on the nature of the algorithmically controlled product (Clegg et al., 2023). Building on insights from digital science and consumer research into algorithmic recognition, this study investigates how digital technology users respond to different types of algorithms. In the digital age, AI chatbots are one of the AI applications being adopted in many businesses (Bavaresco et al., 2020; Johansen et al., 2021). AI chatbots are transforming into more interactive ways of talking, based on external (interaction with consumers) or internal (interaction with employees) user experiences. On the other hand, users' concerns about how algorithms operate and control chatbots are growing as well. This study focused on creativity and predictability to investigate the effect of algorithms on the attack towers using AI chatbots in the form of Conversational interaction of AI-enabled chatbots. Although previous studies in chatbots have often investigated anthropomorphic primarily based on appearance or behavior (Mende et al., 2019; Pelau et al., 2021), our work provides theoretical insights into consumer responses to technical works of algorithms. In addition, we focus on the continuous use of AI chatbots, away from intention-driven research. These insights extend previous research on algorithm recognition and technology adoption (de Bellis et al., 2023), adding recognition of algorithm type as an important concept to be studied in consumer research.

ABSTRACT. This research explores the phenomenon of consumer-to-consumer (C2C) bartering (i.e., swapping goods in exchange for other goods instead of currency), which is growing in popularity online. Examples include bartering on Gumtree, craigslist, Depop, and Vinted. With preliminary C2C bartering data collected from the website My Subscription Addiction, we find that consumers are making unbalanced exchanges of fashion and other products from subscription boxes (e.g., Birchbox, FabFitFun) that differ in average retail value and number of items being swapped. Our research seeks to understand why consumers are making such asymmetric barters online, thus providing a glimpse into their post-purchase behavior.

ABSTRACT. The objective of this study is to validate and enhance the proposed model of Borges-Tiago, Santiago, and Tiago (2023) by determining which category—human or humanoid virtual influencers—more effectively promotes fashion brands.

ABSTRACT. Virtual reality (VR) is one of the most inventive and promising technologies available today (Wu et al., 2020). VR makes it easier for users to interact with Virtual Environments (VE), which stimulate their senses with computer-generated pictures and help users have immersive experiences and imagination (Rebelo et al., 2012). Users can experience a virtual journey that is comparable to reality thanks to this innovative technology (Rebelo et al., 2012; Yung & Khoo-Lattimore, 2019). Consequently, this will be reflected in their choices and wants (Moro et al., 2019). Thus, knowing how VR can be used in the tourist industry is critical to ensuring the sector's future success (Nayyar et al., 2018). This study as a twofold purpose first we thought to examine the role of VR as a tool in shaping the decision process and destination choice of prospective tourists' travel actions, and second to assess the potential of recent technologies and their consequences for the tourism industry. Thus, this research attempts to address the following research question:

To what degree can VR as a tool in the tourism industry increase the desire to travel? Overall, the purpose of this study is to determine whether VR can be used to promote a destination.

ABSTRACT. The expression of culture and identity in fashion is deeply connected to color choices, as they serve as a powerful tool for conveying emotions, beliefs, and social affiliations. Color forecasting is conducted well before each fashion season to anticipate the palettes that will resonate with future consumers, taking into account various societal factors. In 2022, the ongoing Ukraine-Russia conflict presented a unique opportunity to examine how fashion responds to real-time global turmoil.

Our study focused on the disruption of Spring/Summer 2022 color predictions, which were initially characterized by optimism and post-pandemic tranquility. Surprisingly, the conflict seemed to trigger the emergence of alternative color palettes associated with solidarity towards Ukraine or the rejection of Russian influences. We employed a comparative case study approach to analyze these trends, examining the color palettes showcased by five luxury brands through established trend forecasting platforms.

Leveraging artificial intelligence and machine learning, our research aimed to accurately decode and anticipate color trends. We constructed a comprehensive dataset by gathering public fashion information and comparing predicted color palettes against market trends. Our findings deepen our understanding of fashion's dynamic relationship with global events and underscore the need for adaptable forecasting models in our rapidly changing world. Ultimately, this study highlights the significance of fashion's response to real-world crises and its potential implications for the future of color forecasting.

ABSTRACT. The metaverse represents a hot topic in the marketing and business worlds, however there are limited studies about how brands manage these new innovative platforms within an omnichannel environment. This research aims to explore luxury fashion brands’ Metaverse adoption into their omnichannel strategies, in particular focusing on the opportunities and challenges firms face. An empirical study was conducted by collecting 11 semi-structured interviews with practitioners working for luxury fashion brands and other key informants such as representatives of a Metaverse association and professionals from consultancy companies. Findings highlight the central role of experience in shaping an immersive customer purchase process, which can potentially extend beyond physical touchpoints. In such context, the Metaverse represents an opportunity to engage customers even further, although some barriers (e.g., technological constraints) still exist.